Many housewives believe that it is possible to cook high-quality food only from natural ingredients. Today, even self-grinding of flour is becoming fashionable. For this, there are household grain mills. The unit can be bought or made with your own hands.

The grain mill will allow you to obtain a product from raw materials whose quality is guaranteed by your own choice. The ordinary apparatus grinds wheat, oats, barley and other grain crops. At the exit, at the request of the owner, flour of any type of grinding, flakes, cereals of different fractions, compound feed is obtained. The household mill is small-sized and easily fits on the working kitchen table. At the same time, its productivity allows covering the needs of the household. The simplest model with a low-power electric drive processes half a bucket of wheat per minute.

The grain mill works on the basis of a rotary mechanism. It consists of:

• rotor;
• stator;
• electric motor.

The principle of operation of such a mill is simple. The grain enters the mechanism through the receiving glass. Inside, it is frayed with the help of a rotor and a stator. Ready flour or another product is poured into the prepared container through the outlet pipe.

Homemade grain mills are of two types:

1. Mechanical. Grinding is carried out by rotating the handle with the help of hands or a simple electric drive. They have low performance. But the assembly of the mill is very simple and low-cost. You will feel the pleasant process of turning grains into flour. It is similar to grinding coffee beans in a manual coffee grinder.
2. Electrical. Aimed at processing increased volumes of grain. These grinders are a great option for regular home use. Models with a powerful engine can even grind mushrooms or dried fruits.

Attention! In order for the "stuffing" of the mill to work reliably, it is placed in a case made of hard wood such as pine, linden or beech. The tree will add pleasant notes to the aroma of flour.

Preparing to assemble a simple mechanism

The proposed model of a household mill is the author's. It was developed by Udmurt masters. The body length does not exceed 32 cm. The height and width are even smaller. The weight of the crusher in the assembly is 15 kg. The mill needs a low power motor, up to 180 watts. A motor from an old washing machine or similar household appliance will do. Basic productivity - 1 bucket of corn or 2 buckets of wheat in 10 minutes. The author's scheme for assembling this mill is shown in the photo. In addition to the electric motor, you will need:

• 12 screws and the same number of spring washers for fixing;
• a pair of steel corners measuring 45x45 mm (for motor support);
• steel sheet about 8 mm thick (for the bed);
• and one more, about 3 mm thick, as well as fastenings - 4 bolts;
• studs with nuts;
• a small iron box for roofing (receiving glass) and 2 screws for it;
• rotor;
• stator;

• protective cover for bearings;
• coupling;
• metal pipe;
• distance ring 0.5 mm;
• a pair of #203 bearings plus 3 bolts;
• steel handle brackets 0.2 cm thick;
• wooden handle.

Attention! In this scheme of the mill, bolts of the basic type - M6 are used everywhere.

Crusher Assembly: Rotor Manufacturing

To make a rotor together with a shaft, a stator and a cover for the bearing compartment, you will need the ability to own a drilling and turning machine. Before working on the mill, it is important to know the intricacies of the process:

1. The shaft is machined from round steel or M45 forgings.
2. The basic diameter of the rotor is 105 mm with subsequent turning up to 104.5 mm.

The finished part should be hardened:

• heat in an oven to 800 ° C;
• cool in an oil container;
• heat up to 400 ° C;
• put to cool at room temperature.

Attention! It is impossible to carry out hardening with water, it will negatively affect the strength of the mill.

You can check the quality of the procedure with a file. It should not leave marks on the cutting edge of the tooth.

In the proposed scheme, the rotor rotates on a pair of radial bearings. Between them, a spacer ring is attached to the shaft. This will allow the bearings to move and adjust to the stress inside the device. The mechanism will become more reliable and last longer.

Stator and other elements

Making a stator on your own is even more difficult. When turning on the machine, leave a minimum allowance in the workpiece:

• make an opening in the center - 70 mm;
• mark the workpiece based on a diameter of 10.5 cm, mark the places of future openings, contours
• holes at the bottom and top;
• drill blind recesses 2.6 cm deep;
• eliminate the allowance on the wall and cut out a place for the rotor (10.5 cm);
• on the reverse side, carve a mounting groove for bearings;
• think over and prepare the ring for the seal.

Advice. The stator also needs to be hardened.

Work on the machines is the most difficult stage in the assembly of the mill. Therefore, you can entrust it to professionals by ordering parts from them. The location of the stator is manually adjusted using fixing bolts. The quality of grinding depends on the accuracy. The electrical circuit of the mill, in addition to the motor, includes a capacitor (3.8 kmF), a fuse and a switch. All contacts should be closed from direct access.

After a successful trial run, all that remains is to make a frame, fix the apparatus, attach a container to it for receiving and exiting raw materials. The simplest grain mill is ready.

Have you tried to make such a mill yourself?

Homemade windmill: video

The times when it was necessary to build a large stone mill to obtain flour have long sunk into oblivion. Modern devices for grinding grain are practical and compact, and allow you to get flour from different types of grain crops. At home, you can make two types of mill: manual and electric.

An electric homemade mill can produce both coarse and medium, and fine flour. The fraction size is set in the settings. The advantages of a home grain mill are the ability to process a variety of raw materials: rice, buckwheat, wheat, soybeans, rye, corn, oats or millet.

The power of the simplest home appliance will allow you to grind a bucket of corn to a floury state in five minutes, and a similar amount of wheat in just two minutes.

Required materials and parts

Making a windmill with your own hands is not difficult if you have all the materials and tools. Before you make a mill, it is recommended to study the diagrams and drawings well. You can find them on the Internet on any thematic forum. The drawings will help you understand the principle of fastening parts, electrical components, cutting elements, and avoid many assembly errors.

The mill device includes:

• Motor (a motor from an old washing machine is suitable),
• motor support,
• bed,
• receiving bunker,
• Rotor and stator
• Loading bunker.

Of the materials you also need to have:

• 20 bolts m6,
• steel corners,
• Sheet steel with a thickness of at least 6 mm,
• Ties,
• clutch,
• Sheet steel for the manufacture of the cover, at least 3 mm thick,
• 10 screws m6,
• Pair of bearings, number 203.

Manufacturing process

The design of the grain grinder is very simple. Manufacturing also does not require much effort, if you buy all the necessary parts. Some craftsmen prefer to make at home not only the device itself, but also the component parts.

In order to assemble a complete homemade grain mill, experience with a lathe and drilling equipment is required.

Rotor Assembly

The most important element of an electric mill is the rotor. The process of its manufacture is quite laborious, and before starting work, you need to remember a few important points:

• The shaft of the manufactured rotor must be of variable section,
• The shaft is made of round steel,
• The work process is divided into several stages.

The first stage includes the preparation of metal blanks. The workpiece must have several identical holes with a radius of 5 cm. The second stage is to erase the outer layer of the workpiece so that the groove is reduced to 10.5 cm in size. With this size, the working teeth of the future rotor open.

Next, the rotor is poisoned for hardening. Hardening occurs in two stages. The first is in an oven at a temperature of eight hundred degrees, the second is in an oil container. It is not recommended to cool the workpiece with cold water: the metal will become brittle. The next step is vacation: the rotor is heated to four hundred degrees, and left at room temperature until completely cooled.

The rotor is attached to the shaft with two bearings, which increases the strength of the mill. A small distance ring is attached to the shaft between the bearings. They allow the bearings to move along the shaft to create more tension.

Stator assembly

It is very difficult to make a stator at home, so it is recommended to buy a ready-made element. In the stator, several threaded holes are made for the covers from the bearings and the stator itself, as well as for the nozzle and the boot box. For greater accuracy of the mill, you need to correctly set the coordinates on the stator. This is done with a few bolts.

Bed assembly

An important part of the mill is the frame. The base is made of thick steel sheet. The stator is attached to the frame with screws, which at the same time will hold the branch pipe. If a removable branch pipe is planned, then it must be attached to the opening in the base corresponding to the diameter of the part. The removable nozzle is held only by friction force.

A branch pipe is made from a pipe cut with a diameter of about 3 cm. The pipe can have both a round section and a square one. Next, a box is assembled for loading from a sheet of iron. The iron sheet is bent into the desired shape, and the seams are soldered. The finished box is mounted on the stator and bolted.

Engine mounting

The operation of the grain mill is carried out by an electric motor. Together with the motor you need to have:

• Capacitor,
• tumbler,
• Fuse.
• The motor is installed along with the accessories on the dielectric plate.

An important point: the motor shaft must be coaxial with the crushing rollers, and a coupling is used to transmit the rotary element.

The device is ready to work. It remains only to fill the grain into the bunker for loading and turn on the device.

hand mill

A do-it-yourself mechanical mill is made much lighter than its electrical counterpart, and its performance is quite high. It consists of two parts - millstones and a frame with a handle.

Millstones for a mill

For a productive mill, it is very important to find good millstones. The subsequent grinding and durability of the crusher depends on the quality of the stones. Usually suitable stones can be found in special workshops, or found on the banks of the river and processed by yourself. The processing of future millstones is carried out using a grinder with a diamond disc of at least 23 cm in diameter. A powerful drill is needed to make holes in the center of the stones. The optimal diameter of the finished millstones is 22-24 cm, and the height is 10-12 cm. It is possible to make millstones of a larger size, but a smaller one is not desirable. The greater the weight of the stones, the better the grinding of flour will be.

A hand mill should consist of two millstones and a base. The top millstone is called the runner, and the bottom millstone is called the bottom millstone. The runner is usually made lighter, since after each cycle of work it is raised to extract the remaining flour. A hole must be drilled in the runner to enter the center of the grain. It is better to drill with a special diamond-coated drill, and in the process, cool the drilling site with cold water.

The next step in making a homemade grain mill is to cut notches on the millstones. They should be in the form of grooves with a triangular section, about 10 mm wide, at least 2 mm deep and at least 4 mm deep in the bottom and runner, respectively. In the center of the slider, four large grooves are made eight deep and fifteen millimeters wide. It will be easier to understand the location of the notches and holes if you find a finished project or drawings of a hand grinder mill.

Skeleton manufacturing

A home grain mill must have a solid wooden frame. It serves as a support for the lower millstone and centers the runner. A small cutout for flour is made at the bottom of the wooden frame. The hole can be closed with a sieve with a cell of the desired size - the flour will be sifted on its own and will not require additional processing. A metal clamp is attached to the slider, to which a handle is attached.

A do-it-yourself mill made according to this scheme will last for many years, and is able to grind a variety of types and types of grain.

A household mini-mill for grain is a necessary device for obtaining flour. Making a mill with your own hands will require skills in working with drilling and turning devices. With this device, you can get coarse or fine flour and use it for home baking. Check out the detailed instructions on how to make a windmill with your own hands and try to put your knowledge into practice.

Characteristics of a homemade mini grain mill

This device was created in Udmurtia by O. Zaitsev and A. Yagovkin and was called "Baby". With the help of this do-it-yourself mill, you can grind grain, make feed for livestock and poultry in your subsidiary farm, grind flour from oats, wheat and other grains. A home-made mill is small in size, but at the same time it has high productivity: in just 5-6 minutes you can grind a bucket of corn on it, and wheat and oats - 2 times faster.

The technical specifications of a DIY homemade grain mill are as follows:

• dimensions (without branch pipe and bunker) - 320 x 160 x 170 mm;
• electric motor power - 180 W;
• productivity: for corn - 0.2 buckets per minute, for wheat, oats and other crops - 0.5 buckets per minute;
• the number of possible varieties of grinding - 2;
• the chopper is homemade, rotor-stator and reversible;
• the mass of the mill in the collection - 15 kg.

This home-made mill-grain crusher has sufficient reliability: as practice has shown, in two years of active operation, the mechanism has never failed.

How to make a homemade mini mill rotor

The design of a homemade grain mill is quite simple, so anyone with a desire can assemble such a device on their own. However, before you make a mill with your own hands, you need to get certain skills, namely, mastery of drilling and turning devices.

But if there are no such skills, then you can order the required parts in the workshop. Only three main parts will have to be ordered from the craftsmen: the rotor, stator and bearing assembly cover. You can assemble the entire structure from already manufactured parts in your home workshop.

If it is possible to do all the details for a home-made flour mill on your own, then a number of technological recommendations should be taken into account. When manufacturing a steel rotor, it is necessary to machine it together with a shaft of variable cross section. It is made of steel round timber or forging (grade 45, diameter 120 mm and length 90 mm). The work should be carried out in three stages. First, pre-treatment is needed, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the workpiece, which should be evenly spaced around the circumference (diameter 105 mm). When the top layer is removed (grooving until a diameter of 104.5 mm is reached), the working protrusions-teeth open. Then the finished rotor must be subjected to heat treatment, i.e. hardening and tempering.

The technology of this process is as follows: the part must be heated to a temperature of 800-820 ° C (to a light red color), then lowered into an oil bath (it is not recommended to use water, otherwise the part will turn out to be too fragile and cracks will form), then tempering should be done , for which it is necessary to heat the rotor to 380-400 ° C, and then cool it in air. As a result, the hardness of the treated surface increases significantly - up to 350-400 Brinell units. You can check the quality of hardening of the product using a file, passing it along the cutting edge of the rotor tooth. With a high quality of hardening, the file will easily slide over the product without leaving a mark.

The rotor of this design rotates on two deep groove ball bearings. This allows you to significantly increase the bearing capacity of the unit, as well as the reliability of the entire mill as a whole.

A distance ring 0.5 mm thick should be installed on the shaft between the bearings. This device gives the bearings the ability to move by the calculated amount, creating a small interference fit, which allows the assembly to adapt to the internal stresses that the rotor-stator mechanisms have.

How to make a homemade mill stator with your own hands

The most difficult is the manufacture of the stator, so it requires maximum accuracy and accuracy of the work performed. The entire manufacturing process of the part also takes place in three stages. First you need to process the workpiece on a lathe. At the same time, a technological allowance should be left on the side of the working chamber. To do this, you need to drill a central hole to a diameter of 70 mm, then mark a circle with a diameter of 105 mm on the workpiece, apply the centers of future holes, which later form the working surface of the stator. These markings are applied in accordance with the drawing. Next, the contours of the upper and lower "windows" are marked, and after that, in accordance with the drawing and marking, blind holes are drilled to a depth of 28 mm.

Next, on a lathe, remove the technological allowance and bore the cavity under the working chamber to a diameter of 105 mm. Now the workpiece must be unfolded and bored with a seat for bearings No. 203. A groove for the sealing collar (if any) is also machined. However, it is known from practice that the design can do without this element.

This concludes the first stage of processing the part. Now you can start drilling the threaded holes for installing the stator cover, nozzle, hopper and bearing assembly cover. At the end of the work, the stator must be heat treated, like the rotor (using the same technology).

In the process of how to make a homemade mill, it is very important in the process of assembling a mini mill to carefully adjust the position of the stator. This is done with bolts. The rotor should rotate easily and without jamming. After that, you can test run the mill. First you need to fix it on a stool, plug it into the network, fill the hopper with grain and turn it on.

How to make a home mill frame

The next item: how to make the third important design detail for a homemade mill - the base plate, or bed. It can be cut from a steel sheet with a thickness of 6-8 mm. Then you need to attach the stator to it with the help of M6 screws, which will simultaneously fix the pipe. The last element can also be made removable by simply installing it in the hole in the frame, which is made in this case according to the size of the pipe. In this hole, the structural element will hold only due to friction.

The branch pipe is made from a piece of thin-walled pipe with an outer diameter of 28 mm. Its section can be square or round, and in accordance with this, the hole in the frame for it is also made square or round, depending on the diameter of the pipe used.

Next is the loading hopper. This is the simplest part in the overall design according to the manufacturing method. The bunker can be cut out of roofing iron, then the sheet is bent to a given shape and the butt weld is soldered. Roofing iron may well compete in strength and reliability, in this case, with thicker sheet iron. The finished hopper is mounted on the stator and secured with two M6 bolts.

Before you make a grain mill, be sure to consider one important factor. If the rotor rotates in one direction, only one half of the working chamber of the stator is involved. If the rotor rotates in the opposite direction, then the other half of the stator will begin to participate in the work. Since the dimensions and number of protrusions in the working chamber on the right and left are different, the result of grinding products in the first and second cases will be different. Due to this, using one or another option, it will be possible to obtain a greater or lesser degree of grinding of the product at the output. To do this, you just need to change the direction of rotation of the rotor.

Electric equipment for household mini-mill

Even before you make a mini mill, take care of the electrical equipment. As electrical equipment in the design of the mini-mill, a capacitor, a toggle switch and a fuse are used. They are mounted next to the motor on a plate made of dielectric. To reverse the rotor, you just need to switch the capacitor, the capacitance of which is approximately 3.8 microfarads (due to the relatively small load on the motor).

The shafts of the grain crusher and the engine must be aligned. The transmission of rotation will be carried out using a rigid coupling. In the mounting brackets, it is necessary to make guide holes for the M6 ​​bolts so that the alignment of the shafts can be adjusted. In the base plate of the mill in the horizontal plane there should be holes that will be used for moving, and in the vertical plane the same holes should be located on another shelf of the corners.

For finished flour, you only need to substitute a container under the outlet pipe. If everything is done correctly, the mill will work without interruption.

Many housewives believe that it is possible to cook high-quality food only from natural ingredients. Today, even self-grinding of flour is becoming fashionable. For this, there are household grain mills. The unit can be bought or made with your own hands.

The grain mill will allow you to obtain a product from raw materials whose quality is guaranteed by your own choice. The ordinary device grinds wheat, oats, corn, barley and other grain crops. At the exit, at the request of the owner, flour of any type of grinding, flakes, cereals of different fractions, compound feed is obtained. The household mill is small-sized and easily fits on the working kitchen table. At the same time, its productivity allows covering the needs of the household. The simplest model with a low-power electric drive processes half a bucket of wheat per minute.

The grain mill works on the basis of a rotary mechanism. It consists of:

• rotor;
• stator;
• electric motor.

The principle of operation of such a mill is simple. The grain enters the mechanism through the receiving glass. Inside, it is frayed with the help of a rotor and a stator. Ready flour or another product is poured into the prepared container through the outlet pipe.

Homemade grain mills are of two types:

1. Mechanical. Grinding is carried out by rotating the handle with the help of hands or a simple electric drive. They have low performance. But the assembly of the mill is very simple and low-cost. You will feel the pleasant process of turning grains into flour. It is similar to grinding coffee beans in a manual coffee grinder.
2. Electrical. Aimed at processing increased volumes of grain. These grinders are a great option for regular home use. Models with a powerful engine can even grind mushrooms or dried fruits.

Attention! In order for the "stuffing" of the mill to work reliably, it is placed in a case made of hard wood such as pine, linden or beech. The tree will add pleasant notes to the aroma of flour.

Preparing to assemble a simple mechanism

The proposed model of a household mill is the author's. It was developed by Udmurt masters. The body length does not exceed 32 cm. The height and width are even smaller. The weight of the crusher in the assembly is 15 kg. The mill needs a low power motor, up to 180 watts. A motor from an old washing machine or similar household appliance will do. Basic productivity - 1 bucket of corn or 2 buckets of wheat in 10 minutes. The author's scheme for assembling this mill is shown in the photo. In addition to the electric motor, you will need:

• 12 screws and the same number of spring washers for fixing;
• a pair of steel corners measuring 45x45 mm (for motor support);
• steel sheet about 8 mm thick (for the bed);
• and one more, about 3 mm thick, as well as fastenings - 4 bolts;
• studs with nuts;
• a small iron box for roofing (receiving glass) and 2 screws for it;
• rotor;
• stator;

• protective cover for bearings;
• coupling;
• metal pipe;
• distance ring 0.5 mm;
• a pair of #203 bearings plus 3 bolts;
• steel handle brackets 0.2 cm thick;
• wooden handle.

Attention! In this scheme of the mill, bolts of the basic type - M6 are used everywhere.

Crusher Assembly: Rotor Manufacturing

To make a rotor together with a shaft, a stator and a cover for the bearing compartment, you will need the ability to own a drilling and turning machine. Before working on the mill, it is important to know the intricacies of the process:

1. The shaft is machined from round steel or M45 forgings.
2. The basic diameter of the rotor is 105 mm with subsequent turning up to 104.5 mm.

The finished part should be hardened:

• heat in an oven to 800 ° C;
• cool in an oil container;
• heat up to 400 ° C;
• put to cool at room temperature.

Attention! It is impossible to carry out hardening with water, it will negatively affect the strength of the mill.

You can check the quality of the procedure with a file. It should not leave marks on the cutting edge of the tooth.

In the proposed scheme, the rotor rotates on a pair of radial bearings. Between them, a spacer ring is attached to the shaft. This will allow the bearings to move and adjust to the stress inside the device. The mechanism will become more reliable and last longer.

Stator and other elements

Making a stator on your own is even more difficult. When turning on the machine, leave a minimum allowance in the workpiece:

• make an opening in the center - 70 mm;
• mark the workpiece based on a diameter of 10.5 cm, mark the places of future openings, contours
• holes at the bottom and top;
• drill blind recesses 2.6 cm deep;
• eliminate the allowance on the wall and cut out a place for the rotor (10.5 cm);
• on the reverse side, carve a mounting groove for bearings;
• think over and prepare the ring for the seal.

Advice. The stator also needs to be hardened.

Work on the machines is the most difficult stage in the assembly of the mill. Therefore, you can entrust it to professionals by ordering parts from them. The location of the stator is manually adjusted using fixing bolts. The quality of grinding depends on the accuracy. The electrical circuit of the mill, in addition to the motor, includes a capacitor (3.8 kmF), a fuse and a switch. All contacts should be closed from direct access.

After a successful trial run, all that remains is to make a frame, fix the apparatus, attach a container to it for receiving and exiting raw materials. The simplest grain mill is ready.

Have you tried to make such a mill yourself?

Homemade windmill: video

The landscaping of a personal plot includes not only flower beds, vegetable gardens, greenhouses and paths, but also many other elements, including those that perform an exclusively decorative function. An example of such an object is a small copy of a windmill for a garden. Many of its varieties today can be purchased in stores or from individual craftsmen. But often the price of such decorative objects is too high, and if you know how to work with wood, then it makes sense to try to make a windmill with your own hands for the garden. And this article will help you.

The main function of such a structure is, of course, decorative - the mill on the site pleases the eye and creates an atmosphere of comfort. Also, with its help, gardens and flower beds are decorated in the old Russian or European style (depending on the appearance of the object itself). A good addition to the mill will be benches, miniature carts, wattle fences, fences or a small pond.

In addition, it can bring you practical benefits. With the help of a small mill, some gardeners "hide" not so attractive communication elements - taps, hatches, containers, etc. As a result, everything that the eye can catch on in a poor sense of the word is hidden, harmony between trees, flowers, stones and decorative objects do not disturb anything. In addition, the gardener has the opportunity to combine a flower bed and a mill into one structure - you just need to supplement the base with boxes of earth.

And if you increase the structure in size, then it can be turned into a gazebo or a children's house. Or, if functionality is more important, make a barn out of the mill and a place to store garden tools.

Garden mill-gazebo

Garden mill device

Most of these decorative objects consist of the following parts:

• platform;
• base;
• frame;
• roof;
• rotation mechanism;
• blades.

Platform- this is the place where the garden mill will be installed. The structure can, of course, be simply put on the ground in a garden or in a flower bed, but then it will not last long - dampness will do its job and render the decor object unusable. Therefore, it is desirable to build a platform of concrete or stone. The last option will be prettier.

Base- the lower part of the mill itself, usually wider for better stability. The most stringent requirements must be imposed on the quality of the base treatment - this part of the structure is most in contact with moist soil and plants.

frame- the main part of the decorative object, the walls of the mill. It is assembled from boards, plywood, slats, lining, small logs and many other materials. In addition, the frame has a decorative function and is often decorated with windows, doors, balconies and other small elements.

Important! When choosing a place for a mill, pay attention to the surroundings - the appearance of the structure should be in harmony with everything around.

Roof - the top of the building. Usually assembled from slats, planks or lining. In some cases, plastic is used, especially for rounded roofs, which are difficult to make from wood. By its color, this part of the mill should stand out from the frame.

Inside the roof is rotation mechanism– axle on two ball bearings. In most cases, it passes through the entire structure; this location option is reliable and stable. The mechanism can be supplemented by connecting the roof of the mill to the frame on a vertical axis and adding a sail - then the structure will not only rotate the blades, but also turn in the direction of the wind.

Blades, also known as wings - the second most important decorative element of the mill. It is assembled from plywood, planks and thin bars. The main condition is that all blades must have the same mass and be balanced, then the mill will last a long time and without problems. Examples of various design options for the wings of the mill are shown in the pictures below.

Table. Types of decorative mills for the garden.

There are many ways to ensure that the tree on the site quickly withered. However, the most common of them are those that involve the use of chem. preparations intended for the destruction of plants. Read more in.

Decorative plywood garden windmill - instructions for creating

Here is a step by step tutorial on how to make a hexagonal plywood ornamental garden windmill. With the proper skills and tools for woodworking, assembly will not take you much time and effort.

Important! All details of decorative mills need careful and multilayer treatment with antiseptics, protective compounds and varnishes. Only in this way they will not lose their attractive appearance over time and will be able to decorate a plot or yard for many years. An example of a good protective coating for a mill is ship or yacht varnish.

Start working with the middle part of the structure, called the frame in the picture above. It is a truncated hexagonal pyramid with a straight base. All parts are assembled from thick plywood.

Step 1. Prepare drawings and part templates. Given the complexity of the design, the dimensional accuracy of each element becomes very important.

Step 2 With a pencil, mark on the sheets of plywood the individual elements of the frame - trapezoids elongated in height. Then cut them out with an electric jigsaw. Do not forget to cut the side ends at an angle of 45 ° to connect with the rest of the elements.

Step 3 Place the finished plywood pieces together so that the cuts form grooves facing down. Refer to the image below. Connect the parts together with adhesive tape.

Step 4 Turn the resulting structure over and apply glue to the grooves formed by the cuts. Act quickly, but at the same time carefully.

Step 5 Fold all the frame parts into a hexagon so that the glued ends fit snugly together. Use tape again so that the design holds its shape for a while.

Step 6 Wait until the applied adhesive dries, lay the walls on their side and remove any excess. Remove the tape from the structure.

Step 7 Cut out the hexagonal lid to the inner dimensions of the upper narrow part of the frame. On one of the sides, do not completely screw in the screw - it will play the role of a kind of mounting handle. Glue the edge of the upper narrow part of the frame with glue, turn it over with this side down and, using a screw, mount the hexagonal cover. Put some weight on top of it. Wait until the glue dries, remove its remnants.

The truncated pyramid that makes up the walls of the mill is ready. Now start building the base. It is a straight hexagonal prism. For connection with the base of the structure, a central vertical beam is used, which is fixed with a screw on the top cover of the prism and passes through the corresponding hole in the bottom one.

Step 1. Cut out two hexagonal lids to fit the base of the truncated pyramid you made earlier. In the center of one of the parts, make a mark for the screw, in the other - a square hole along the cross section of the beam.

Step 2 Install both covers on one of the faces, cut out the vertical walls of the prism. Connect the first three of them with the lids with glue, use tape and clamps to maintain the shape. Everything is shown in the image below.

Step 3 Repeat the previous operation with the three remaining faces of the prism.

Step 4 Insert the bar into the hole in the bottom cover. Move it until it touches the top hexagon. There, screw the screw on the mark and fix the beam.

The beam must be screwed to the upper hexagon with a screw

Step 5 Treat the lower walls of the truncated pyramid and the top of the prism with glue, connect them to each other. Use tape again to maintain shape.

Step 6 Once the glue dries, remove the adhesive tapes and process the resulting design with a grinder or emery cloth.

The next part of the mill to be made is the base, which consists of three parts:

• the lower part is a large straight hexagonal prism with fastening for a vertical bar;
• middle - truncated hexagonal pyramid;
• the upper one is a small straight hexagonal prism with grooves for a decorative viewing platform.

As for the walls of the mill, we present the manufacture in the form of a step-by-step instruction.

Step 1. Prepare fasteners for the beam, which was mentioned above. It is a board fixed on the lower hexagonal prism and a hollow box under the beam section.

Step 2 Saw out six parts for the lower prism from plywood, cut them at the side ends, as shown in the instructions for the mill walls. Attach with glue and tape together. Then attach the plank and lumber box from the previous step. Make sure that they are located exactly according to the drawing.

Finished lower base prism with fasteners for timber

Step 3 Now proceed to the truncated base pyramid. Saw out the trapezoid-shaped parts from plywood, use a jigsaw to make cuts on the side ends at an angle of 45 °. Then connect the elements of the pyramid from the outside with adhesive tape, gluing the grooves and assemble the hexagonal structure. After drying, get rid of the glue residue.

Step 4 Run a small upper base prism. At the corners, saw through small grooves for attaching an observation platform that will decorate your windmill.

Step 5 Connect all three parts of the base to each other with glue. From above, attach a load to them, which can be a bucket of water. The load is necessary for a better setting of the glue.

Important! Do not overdo it with the mass of the load, the base design may not withstand excessive loads.

After completing the bottom of the windmill, proceed to the observation deck. The latter consists of supports made of small bars, a track of rails and railings. The platform is screwed to the lower part of the mill wall and is installed with props in the grooves of the base.

Step 1. Saw out the base bars. Then make marks or small holes on them for fastening the viewing platform to the walls of the mill with screws.

Step 2 Prepare a template on which the floor slats of the observation deck will be laid. It should be a hexagon with pencil marks. It makes sense to glue it with double-sided tape so that the floor slats do not move from the slightest movement or contact with the supports during installation.

Step 3 Lay five rows of timber, as shown in the photo below, to form the floor of the observation deck. Between themselves, they are connected with a small amount of glue. From above, with its help, fasten the supports to each of the corners of the hexagon. Use clamps for clamping.

Step 4 Wait for the glue to dry and carefully separate the floor and observation deck supports from the template.

Step 5 Attach vertical bars to the outer edges of the supports - these will be the railing posts. Fastening is made on screws.

Step 6 Carefully glue the slats to the racks that will make up the walls of the railing. Use clamps or plastic clips to form.

Step 7 Turn the mill frame over and place it on the floor or workbench with the timber facing up. Also turn the viewing platform over and fix it to the lower hexagonal cover of the truncated pyramid with screws. Then glue the grooves in the upper part of the base and attach the mill frame to it along with the viewing platform.

The creation of a decorative windmill for the garden is nearing completion. The next stage is the dome and the inner part of the “wings” rotation mechanism. The roof of the mill is made of a plastic hemisphere, to the bottom of which a plywood ring is attached. It, in turn, is connected to screws with a circle, which is mounted on the top cover of the frame of the structure.

Step 1. Process the dome, saw out a ring and a circle from plywood of the desired size.

Dome, as well as a circle and a ring, cut out of plywood

Step 2 Make holes or marks for them in the same places in the circle and ring - this will be needed for subsequent assembly. Mount the circle on the top cover of the mill frame.

Step 3 Make fasteners for the bearings of the mill wing rotation mechanism. They are wooden blocks with holes of the appropriate diameter. Their device and creation are shown in more detail in the images below.

Important! For many garden ornamental windmill assembly jobs, a vertical drill stand will be your indispensable helper, which thus turns into a drilling machine.

Step 4 Connect the lower halves of the bearing brackets by inserting horizontal bars between them and from the ends, as shown below.

Step 5 Install bearings in the holes of the fasteners, mount the whole structure with screws, add a small support at the front to give some tilt.

Step 6 Now you need to connect the bearings to the stainless steel axle. To do this, use nuts with washers, wrapped on all sides of both fastening bars.

Step 7 Install the bars with bearings and axle on the wheel previously mounted on the mill frame.

Step 8 Determine the point where you want to make a hole in the plastic dome for the axle.

Step 9 Drill a hole in the dome for the axle. Then glue a plywood ring to the underside. Use tape as a clamp (crosswise).

Step 10 Carefully mount the dome onto the plywood circle by threading the axle through the hole. Use screws as fasteners, driving them into the marks or small holes made in step 2.

After that, it is necessary to make the outer part of the mill mechanism - the blades and their attachment to the axis.

Step 1. Saw out a block for fastening the mill to the axis. Details of its manufacture are shown below.

Step 2 From relatively thin sheets of plywood, cut out four blades according to a pre-made template.

Step 3 Prepare four long bars. With their help, the blades of the mill will be mounted on the central block and the axis.

Step 4 From one of the ends in each of the bars, drill a hole for the stud.

Step 5 Glue the bars to the blades. Be especially careful and respect the dimensions.

Step 6 Prepare the studs with clamps, put them on one side on the glue to the bars with blades.

Step 7 Insert the clamps into the corresponding holes of the central block, then insert the blades with studs from the ends. Fasten everything precisely and carefully.

Step 8 Install the center block and blades on the mill axle. Check if the mechanism works. If everything is in order - the decorative structure is ready! It remains only to paint it, varnish it and put it in the garden or in the flower bed.

Advice! If you think that the above design of a decorative mill is too complicated, then it makes sense to try to create a more simplified version - with four walls and a frame made of ordinary boards or lining.

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Video - Decorative windmill

Do-it-yourself log mill - instructions

By its design, it is a reduced copy of real log cabins. Shovel cuttings can be used as "logs" - cheap and available at any hardware or gardening store. The list of necessary tools is the same as in the instructions for the previous mill, only a ring nozzle for a drill is added to them, which is necessary for cutting rounded grooves for a log house.

Step 1. Prepare the cuttings, remove the packaging from them, if any. Fold the two cuttings together and secure with clamps with screws. The parts of the blanks extending beyond one of them should be slightly larger than the length of the walls of the future mill. Mark places for cutting cups (the so-called grooves in the log house). This instruction shows the creation of a mill with hexagonal walls, because the connection of the individual elements of the log house is not at right angles. Therefore, the cups in the cuttings should be "oblique", at an angle of 60 °. To do this, prepare a wedge, as in the image below.

Step 2 Lay the two cuttings joined together and clamped on the inclined surface of the wedge and fix. With a hole saw connected to an electric drill, cut through both blanks of the cup for the frame in one operation, as shown in the image below. Then turn the cuttings with clamps 180° and make two more grooves, but from the other end of the cuttings. After that, use a jigsaw to cut off what is located behind the edge of the clamp. The logs for the base of the log mill are ready.

Step 3 Move the clamp up the cuttings, again mark the points for drilling the cups and repeat the previous operations until the desired number of logs is ready.

Step 4 Carefully cut six of these logs lengthwise into two halves - one with cups, the other without. The first will go to the top of the base of the mill, the second to the bottom.

Step 5 In this case, the logs are connected to each other by studs inserted into the base, therefore, in the middle of the cups, drill a hole of the desired diameter in each of them. An alternative connection method is wood glue.

Step 6 Prepare a hexagonal base. Assemble it from two glued trapezoidal boards or cut it out of a single piece of plywood. Insert studs at the corners of the future log house.

Step 7 Put the first three elements of the log house on the studs - halves of logs without cups, prepared in step 5.

6 - Cutting holes for studs in logs; 7 - The beginning of the formation of the frame; 8 - Finished "log" walls of the mill base

Step 8 Sequentially put the logs on the studs, forming a log house, as in the image below. Inside, you can cut holes for decorative doors or windows.

Step 9 Treat the hexagonal base and the walls of the log house with stain or varnish to give a more attractive appearance and protection from damage. From above, fasten another hexagon on the studs, made in the same way as the product from step 6. On it, in turn, fix the metal corners.

Important! For durability, equip the base of the mill with legs or props made of wood that is resistant to external influences. It can be oak or larch.

Step 10 Attach long and thin bars to the corners, which will play the role of a frame for the walls of the mill. At the top, they are attached to a slightly smaller hexagonal board or plywood plate to form a slight slope.

Step 11 Sheathe the frame of the mill with small slats, which are then treated with varnish or stain. At the same time, to improve the appearance, cut holes in the walls for decorative windows and doors. Then make a rectangular base for the roof, assemble its frame from the same bars and sheathe the ends with slats, and the roof with glazing beads. Close the fastening points here and on the walls of the mill with decorative strips.

9 - Processed base with corners for fixing the wall frame; 10 - Installation of frame bars and the upper hexagonal plate; 11 - Finished walls and roof of the mill, sheathed with slats and decorative strips

Step 12 Prepare holes for the axle in the ends of the roof. It can be made from metal or wood. At the outer end of the axle, fix an octagonal bar, on which, with an equal interval, make four holes - for fastening the blades.

Step 13 Saw out three bars that will play the role of the "frame" of the blades - two side, located at an angle, and one central. At the end of the latter, make a rounded stud for mounting the blade on the axle. Then nail the "frame" bars onto the slats and cut them into the desired shape, as in the image below.

12 - Axle with an octagon necessary for fixing the blades. The ends are closed with cuttings; 13 - Blade preparation. Three bars are its frame, but the slats have yet to be cut out to achieve the desired shape.

Step 14 Process the blades and fix on the axis. If necessary, balance them so that the mass is approximately the same and the mill is not subjected to unnecessary loads. Install it in the right place in the garden, preferably on a support of stones - this way the structure will last longer.

With a proper attitude and some skill in working with wood, you will get an excellent mill without any problems, which will decorate your garden, yard or flower beds for many years.

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