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How to make a mini wooden catapult at home. How to make a catapult: simple craft options How to make a do-it-yourself catapult from wood

He continues to delight young scientists with new projects. Let me remind you that the "signature" format of their event consists of three stages: excursion + prototyping + design. And this time we will do the ballista.
Accordingly, at first there was an excursion near the walls and towers of the Kremlin, then they made a desktop model from small parts, and at the last stage they built a "full-length" ballista.
In fact, isn't it cool to make with your own hands what you saw only in pictures and in computer games?
At the word "ballista" personally, images from Heroes 3 appear in my head, or at least from Heroes 5

We managed to skip the first two stages (which we really regret), so I will tell you how the design stage goes.

So, Tolya and Andrey are in class today. Their common success depends on their joint actions.

Begin!

1. First, some theory. We study the strengths and weaknesses of the Moscow Kremlin. Brickwork, the cylindrical shape of the towers - all this is not out of the blue! This is so that the enemy does not pass.

2. Trebuchet stool. Prefabricated structure for the siege. For throwing uses a heavy counterweight.

3. Catapult. Powerful siege weapon for destroying walls

4. And here is the ballista. Shoots heavy spears, stones, iron bolts. used against heavy infantry and cavalry.

5. There are 10 sticks and three strings under the table.

7. Starting with the biggest detail.

8. We spand two smaller parts

9. Cover with a lid so that it does not fall apart

10. What is the string for?

11. Rope - such a thing! And she can do anything!

12. She enters!..

13. ... And out!

14. And out and in!

15. Looks great!

16. On both sides, the rope is held by "toothpicks" :)

17. Toothpicks must be tightened tightly.

18. The tighter you tighten, the more powerful the shot will be.

19. And we shoot with an arrow-pipe.

Since our engineers are intelligent, after all, high school students, they managed quickly. And there was even time left to demonstrate the equipment of the 3D laboratory, in the premises of which the assembly was carried out.

20. For example, using an electronic cutter, you can make such a part in a few minutes

21. To create and download a project, special software is used, where a drawing and parameters are specified

22. And this is the machine itself.

23. This is a 3D printer that just printed a lost camera lens cap. I have been typing for several hours. And the print job was sent to him from the application from the smartphone. How far technology has come!

24. All these beautiful little things are printed and cut on the equipment

!
In this article, Bob, the author of the YouTube channel "I Like To Make Stuff" will tell you about his rather daring and unusual catapult project.

Materials.
- Pine board 50x100 mm
- Silicone hose
- Plastic ties
- Perforated steel strip
- Aluminum profile
- Steel stud, nuts
- Wood screws.

Tools used by the author.
- Clamps
-
-
- Miter saw
-
- Square, pencil, tape measure

Manufacturing process.
First of all, the author cuts the material, bars 50x100 mm in size, and proceeds to the construction of the frame.
Several bars are cut in half in order to make racks and several diagonals out of them.


Since there will be a significant amount of force on the upright from moving back and forth, the author attaches a diagonal crossbar to reinforce the connection. He uses clamps to hold the structure together. The master sets the disk at an angle of 45 degrees and cuts the timber on both sides. Now it should fit perfectly here.


On reflection, the author came to the conclusion that the easiest way to hold this whole structure together, without bothering with joints and pocket holes, would be to use steel strips. They are strong enough and can withstand the load. True, their strength is not functional in all directions, but for this particular "machine" they are the best solution.




Then the author makes the same second half and temporarily fastens them with a metal pin.
In addition, he wants to use a similar rod as a support for the arrow arm. This is the maximum distance that these elements can be removed from each other.


He cuts a few more bars to hold the base together. And again, the author resorts to the technique of "hurried connection": he uses long wood screws and drives them from the outside of the frame into the very middle so that they go deep into the fibers.




The master estimates where to drill holes to pass a metal rod through them. This will be the central axis of the structure, so the entire lever arm will have a fulcrum at that location.


He puts the arrow on top of the rod and lifts it vertically to figure out where the fulcrum should be.


The master marks it and drills a through hole. The lever arm is nothing but an aluminum profile. It is extremely light, yet quite strong.
Well, now the rod will pass here.

Excess hairpins are cut off with a grinder. Now the rod is fixed in both parts with nuts.


On both outer sides, the author fastens the trimmings of the board - so that the rod does not slide back and forth.


The base of the frame is solid enough, but the top is somewhat wobbly. So the author screws in a few more additional spacers.


It's time for testing. The craftsman is screwing the wooden circle to the arrow. It will act as a hook for the rubber hose to hook on.


The hose is temporarily fixed on the racks with clamps. This is a normal medical hose. It is very elastic. And the attempt was successful. Small objects fly far, and with decent acceleration.

The transverse partition had to be removed, it interferes with the full stroke of the boom.


The negative point was that during the start-up, the support legs sagged somewhat and “extinguished” part of the kinetic energy. The author is going to strengthen them by screwing such plates also to the outside of the bars. In this case, the structure will not roll.




Instead of a crossbar, the master pulled on an elastic band - an arrow catcher. One more check... the arrow does not touch the frame - that's it!


In his project, the master will use these locks to hold the arrow.
Thanks to them, this whole thing will be kept cocked. If the latch is moved back, it releases the catapult arrow.

The screws at this point must be long enough to withstand the force that the lever will create.


To launch the catapult, you need to open both valves at the same time. And it is desirable to do this from a safe distance. The author will connect both valves with a short rope, loosely enough, and tie a long one to it.


Now you need to make a place for the hose, which would twist around the hook from the back of the lever. For this, self-tapping screws with an eye will be used. It is fixed on the profile with a wooden block.


Now you can pass the hose. The author does not yet know how long it should be.
Everything will be tested experimentally.


The ends of the hose are wrapped in this way, this will create additional friction and prevent the hose from coming loose. In addition, you will need a few more screeds. The tails of the screeds are cut with scissors.




In the same way, it attaches an elastic band - a damper.




For the "spoon" itself, where the projectile should be loaded, the author will use this spatula, bought at a hardware store. He will fix it on the profile again with ties. If there are not enough of them, electrical tape will be used.

How to diversify a child's leisure time? Offer him something new, still unknown. Remember what toys you played with as a child, and think about what the boy will be interested in. Voynushki, armies, catapults, heavy artillery - all this attracts boys. Therefore, we will talk about a mini-catapult for games.

Catapult in "kinship" with a slingshot. Do you know how to make a scaled-down catapult? In real form, a formidable and serious weapon, in a reduced form, it is an interesting toy for children. How can a boy do without such a device in battle? Making a toy catapult is easy, but not always within the power of a child. Here, mother, who is truly a craftswoman, will come to the rescue - she will build a dollhouse and help with a catapult.

The idea of ​​co-creation is a great chance to spend time together, get closer to the child. Invite your son to build a catapult together and overcome the difficulties by telling him how to build a catapult step by step.

toy catapult

Suitable for construction:

  • The basis for the catapult is a wooden block or plank.
  • Catapult mechanism. A clothespin might work. It is better to take a wooden one, as it is stronger than plastic.
  • Shoulder - wooden or plastic ice cream stick.
  • The saddle is a bottle cap.
  • PVA glue.

What does the design process look like?

So, how to make a catapult? The assembly of the structure consists of three stages:

  1. First, the clothespin is glued to the base.
  2. A popsicle stick is placed on a clothespin and fastened.
  3. Taking the cap from the bottle, apply it to the stick, stepping back from the edge by 0.3-0.5 mm, and put it on the glue.

Board catapult at home

How to make a catapult for children's games and which option to choose, read on.

There are many ways to construct catapults. Check out another option for outdoor play. Remember that a catapult, even a toy one, cannot be 100% safe for a child, so never leave children alone with such devices.

You can make such a toy in 40-60 minutes, and for the design you will need:

  • Fixed door hinge - 1 pc.
  • Mounting angle - 1 pc.
  • Bolt and eye screw - 4 pcs.
  • Rope or cable for tension - 1.3-1.5 m.
  • Tin can - 1 pc.
  • Screws or self-tapping screws.
  • Planed boards 100x50 mm.

Prepare a saw, screwdriver, drills from the tools.

The process of constructing a catapult from boards

The scheme for making a homemade catapult at home is as follows:

  • Cut out 3 blanks from the boards: the base of the catapult - 1500 mm; fixed front pillar - 650 mm; movable arm - 750 mm.
  • Connect the movable arm to the base with a furniture hinge, stepping back from the rear end of the bottom board 600 mm.
  • Attach the front post to the end of the main board with self-tapping screws. For strength, a mounting bracket can be installed on the inside, fastening the structure to self-tapping screws.
  • Attach a throwable can to the top of the lever.
  • Do not forget to screw the screws into the pre-drilled holes: two on the ends of the board that plays the role of the base of the catapult, and two at the top of the structure's lever, on both sides of the part.
  • Fasten the tension rope or cable and install the rubber band without slack, under light tension.

Now you know how to make a catapult with your own hands. Having familiarized yourself with the simplest methods of its design, you can easily cope with the task and give your child a new toy in addition to the existing arsenal.

Trebuchet - a siege weapon or catapult, which was used in medieval England and consisted of a large lever mounted on a cart or stand. The trebuchet works by means of a counterbalancing mechanism, which is opposite the projectile, lowers the lever, launching a large stone or other projectile from the sling towards the enemy - this is somewhat reminiscent of how David used his sling against Goliath. Trebuchet can be made in any size, but all of them, if properly built, demonstrate the principle of leverage.

Steps

Part 1

Planning for the construction of a catapult

    Decide where you will use the catapult. From this will depend on its size and the materials from which it will be made.

    Decide what you will run. This will determine what materials you will use, the size and strength of the sling, as well as how heavy the counterweight should be.

Part 2

Building a catapult

    Cut and sand the frame parts and lever. For an indoor catapult you can use a 2.5 x 15 cm deck. For an outdoor catapult you can use a 5 x 10 cm deck. You will need to cut out the following 8 pieces:

    • Two long base pieces. For a small catapult, you can make them 30cm long; for larger catapults they must be longer.
    • Two racks. Their size should be about 5/6 of the length of the base or its entire length, but not longer. If your base is 30 cm long, then the posts should be 24 to 30 cm long.
    • Three cross bars. Their size should be 1/2 the length of the rack or base. If you want a catapult narrow enough to throw projectiles in a straight line.
    • One lever or bracket. This piece should be 1 1/3 times as long as the base; if the base is 30 cm long, then the lever should be 40 cm long.
  1. Cut and sand the supports. The easiest way to make them is from a piece of plywood at least 6.25mm thick. The length of the support post should be 1/2 the length of the post or base. Draw a line from one corner of the square to the other and cut along the line to make a pair of right triangles.

    • If you want, you can create isosceles triangular support posts so that they slope on both sides of the uprights when assembled.
  2. Take out the axle. You will need either a metal rod or a wooden dowel that is the same length as the width of the joint or slightly longer. The connection must be strong enough to support the weight of the lever, the sling with the projectile you plan to launch, and the counterweight.

    • A piece of rebar will reinforce the axle, but you can also use a metal part of a screwdriver or a wheeled trash can axle. For catapults small enough, you can use a bridge from a toy car. When you decide what you will use as the axle, measure its diameter.
  3. Fasten the posts to the long part of the base. Measure 1/4 of the distance from one end of one of the long base pieces and mark it. Place the end of one of the posts against this mark and glue it in place, then secure with nails or screws. Do the same with the second post and the long base piece, using the first post as a guide.

    Attach props to long base pieces and uprights. Lay one of the assembled parts on its side so that it is covered with a prop on top. Align the brace with the bottom of the base, the back of the upright, and the slope towards the end of the base. Glue the support and secure with nails or screws.

    Drill holes in the tops of the uprights. After assembling the frame, you will pass the axis through them, on which the lever will be held.

    • Mark the location of the holes at the top at a distance of about 1/10 of the entire length of the rack. You will need a drill that is the same diameter or slightly larger than the axle diameter.
  4. Drill a hole in the lever. Make a main hole 1/4 the length of the lever from one end and additional holes on either side of the main. (This will allow you to adjust the pivot point of the lever.)

    Attach the hooks with holes to the end of the lever. These hooks will allow you to attach the sling and counterweight respectively.

    Assemble the frame of the catapult. Attach the 3 cross structures to the base using glue, nails, screws or bolts, depending on the size of the catapult. According to one of the structures, fix at the ends of the frame, and the third just above the racks.

    Place the lever. Install the lever between the posts with the long end of the lever towards the short side of the base and fix with the hook upwards. Insert the axle through the hole in the first post, through one of the lever holes, and through the hole in the second post.

    Color and decorate the catapult. If your catapult is made of wood, painting will help protect it, especially if you plan to store your catapult outdoors. You can decorate the stanchions with historical flags, your family's coat of arms, or the logo of the military history community you belong to.

  5. Make a sling. Take a piece of thick fabric (for a large burlap catapult) and fold it in half. Pick up the corners on both sides and tie them with a rope, cord or twine, forming a bag. Make loops on the free ends of the rope so that you can conveniently put them on the hook at the throwing end of the lever.

    • If you wish, you can fix the sling with a rope on the hook, tying the other end to a loop of thin wire, then the sling will be easier to open when launching the projectile. You can also tie both ends of the rope to a wire loop to make it easier to put the sling on and off the hook.


 


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