Pass-through switch: operating principle and connection

The pass-through switch significantly expands the user's ability to control lighting devices. The design and connection diagram of the pass-through switch allows you to control one lighting device or a group of lamps from several places. This is widely used in buildings, individual rooms and structures for various purposes with large areas.

Using pass-through switches in the house

By having walk-through switches at different ends of a stadium, concert hall or other large venue, you can turn on all the lighting at the entrance. If you need to exit the structure on the opposite side, you do not need to return to the switch that turned on the light - there is the same pass-through switch at the other exit. Electrical circuits with pass-through switches allow you to control lighting from several different locations.

It is very convenient to use such electrical circuits in underground passages and tunnels; circuits with walk-through switches are increasingly used in private houses and on flights of stairs in the entrances of multi-storey buildings.

Design and operating principle

The pass-through switch is no different in appearance from conventional products. The significant difference is in the design of the contact group, which is hidden inside the housing. A simple switch closes and opens an electrical circuit on a single wire. The connection diagram for a pass-through switch, when the position of the keys changes, opens one circuit and immediately closes another. The principle of switching the contacts of the circuit ensures that the switches operate in pairs to control the same light source. According to the technical solution, it would be correct to call such an element in the circuit not a pass-through switch, but a switch. Professional terminology has already been formed, and changes can only create more confusion, so everything remains as it is.

When the contacts of the pass-through switch are switched, one section of the lighting circuit opens and another section closes. The connection diagram of the pass-through switch is changed so that any of the switches is ready to turn the light on or off. A pass-through switch can only be used in conjunction with another. In practice, it is possible to connect a pass-through switch to the circuit so that it works as a simple one, but then the meaning of all the elements of its design is lost.

Like regular switches, pass-through switches are divided depending on the type of wiring: for external wiring, for hidden wiring.

According to the design of the contact terminals: terminals with screw clamps, spring clamp terminals.

By number of keys:

They have everything like conventional switches, the difference is in the design and operation of the contact group. The principle of a single-key pass-through switch is to switch the input contact to one of two output contacts. Two-key pass-through switches. like three-key switches, their housing contains 2 or 3 contact group designs of a single-key switch.

Connecting a pass-through switch is simple; you can do everything yourself. The number of contacts, keys, and switch sizes change, but the operating principle remains the same.

Scheme of the structure of one-, two-, and three-key switches

• a single-key switch has one input terminal and two output terminals;
• two-key switch - two input terminals and four output terminals;
• three-key switch - three input terminals and six output terminals.

Lighting control from 2 places

One lighting fixture or group of fixtures can be controlled from two places: sconces in the hallway or lampposts along the garden path. You will need a regular circuit for connecting a pass-through switch, more precisely with two pass-through single-key switches, because they only work in pairs. Using this example, it is easiest to understand how pass-through switches work. The figure below shows how to connect a pass-through switch to the circuit.

Connection diagram for pass-through switches

The phase from the 220 V network is connected to the input terminal of one of the pass-through switches, its output terminals are connected to the output of the second. The free input terminal of the second switch remains; it is connected to the lighting fixture. The second contact of the lighting device is connected to the neutral wire of the network. The diagram shows that the lamp is in the off state; when the position of the group of contacts of any switch changes, current is supplied to it. The next switch on one of the two switches breaks the circuit and the lamp goes out.

Closer to real conditions, the installation diagram is shown by a picture of the wiring of cables and wires in the junction box. According to the requirements of the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules), in this case a cable with three copper conductors is used:

• red – phase;
• blue – 0;
• yellow-green – ground wire.

Connecting cables and wires in the junction box

The circuit is divided into four circuit sections:

There are four cables in the box.

Requirements for the color of wires according to their functional purpose are fully met only in two areas. From the distribution board and lamp to the box, when disconnecting the contacts of pass-through switches, they are partially carried out. It is allowed to use wires of any color. If you are confused, check with a multimeter in continuity mode or another measuring device. The phase (red) wire must be connected to the input contacts of the switches.

It is used to control two lighting groups. If a person understands how single-key pass-through switches are connected, he will figure out how to connect a triple switch.

Connection diagram for a two-key pass-through switch

Lighting control from 3 places

To control lighting from three places, you will need a cross-through switch. You can install it in any place convenient for use. In the circuit, a crossover switch is connected between conventional pass-through switches. They can be used on flights of stairs, for lighting courtyards and other objects, at the request of the customer.

It’s easy to make a cross switch with your own hands; to do this, you need to slightly modify the two-key pass-through switch. Two jumpers are placed on the output contacts, and the two keys are combined into one; you can simply glue one to the other. It is necessary to glue it so that the mounting holes on the keys coincide with the pins on the switch. The gap between the keys can be compensated with a cardboard spacer, to which plastic strips must be glued on both sides.

There are ready-made products in stores; you don’t have to reinvent the wheel, just buy and deliver.

Lighting control circuit from 3 places

Diagrams A1 and A2 (below) show different connection options, but the functional purpose remains the same - the principle of pairwise transfer of contacts is observed.

Cross switch connection options

In cases where the lighting element is a large chandelier with two groups of light bulbs or just two rows of sconces along a long corridor, two-key pass-through and cross switches must be used. The circuit is a little more complicated, but it is clear that the same principle of switching contacts works. When the light source is turned off by one switch, the contacts close the circuits of the other switches.

The circuit is in such a state that when any key of this group of lamps is pressed, current flows to the contacts of the lamps. Based on these circuits, it is possible to control lighting from four or more places by inserting additional cross switches.

Connection diagram for four switches

Usage example

For a situation where you need to walk through a dark yard to the house, a circuit with pass-through switches in two places is ideal. In a private home it is easy to implement this project with your own hands. In the hallway next to the distribution board you need to install a distribution box and one pass-through switch. The second one needs to be placed on the inside of the fence near the gate; lamp posts installed along the path can be used as lighting fixtures. Large electrical supply stores have many options with original decorative finishes.

The connection should be made according to the diagram described above. It is recommended to lay cables from the street switch and between poles underground in plastic pipes. There is no need to bury it deeply; 30-40 cm will be enough to protect against mechanical damage. There is no point in taking into account the depth of freezing in each region; this is not a water supply system; copper wires will not freeze.

How to connect. Video

You can learn how to connect a pass-through switch according to all the rules from this video.

Having studied the principles of operation of a circuit with two single-key switches and assembling it with your own hands, you can, without outside help, begin installing more complex circuits with two-key switches in three places or three-key switches in two places, if necessary.

Connection diagrams for pass-through switches

Is it possible to turn on/off full lighting on the stairs from any floor? Easily! For this you need pass-through switches.

You entered a long corridor, turned on the light; walked along it to the exit, turned off the lights... How did this happen? Current switching is carried out using pass-through switches, so you can control the same luminaire from different places.

Connection diagram for pass-through switch

The pass-through switch looks similar to a regular one. Moreover, it can work like a regular switch if you connect two wires to it: input and output.

The difference between a pass-through and a simple switch is that a pass-through switch is, in essence, a switch. It transmits the voltage supplied to the input to one of the outputs; when switched back on, voltage from one of the two inputs is transmitted to one output.

Fig.1. Switch and pass-through switch diagrams

In order to switch luminaires from different points, assemble a circuit using the following devices:

• Pass-through switch
• Cross switch
• Two-key pass-through switch
• Two-key skew switch

Using one pass-through switch, you can switch the light between two bulbs, or turn one on and off.

What's happened pass-through switch, 3-point connection diagram? This is not one device, but a circuit of several - we will talk about this later.

First, let's look at how to organize control of one light bulb using two pass-through switches installed at different ends of a long corridor.

Connection diagram for a pass-through switch with 2 places

Consider the circuit in Figure 2. When the switches are in the position shown, the light is on. If you click any switch, it will go out. But the most important thing is this: if you then flip any switch, the light will come on again. A very simple scheme allows you to solve the problem: how to turn off the lights on the second floor by turning them on on the first; how to turn on the light when entering the bedroom, and turn it off while lying in bed.

Fig. 2 Diagram of turning the light on and off from two points

Three-point light switching diagram

The previous section discussed turning electricity on and off from two points: the circuit is very simple.

Well, what if you need to turn the light on and off from three points? This problem arises when trying to save light in a multi-story building and at the same time avoid walking up the stairs in the dark. There is nothing complicated about it. But you will need an additional switch, and not a pass-through switch, but a cross switch.

Rice. 3 Cross switch circuit

Using a crossover switch, phase can be transferred from any input to any output, and the circuit between any input-output pair can be interrupted.
Using a cross switch and two pass-through switches, you can assemble a light on/off circuit from those points, for example, on a staircase in a three-story house:

Fig. 4 Light on/off diagram from three points

Figure 4 shows the position of the switches at which the light is on. By clicking a key on any of those switches, we turn off the light. After this, press a key on any switch and the light will turn on.

What if there are not three floors, but five or six? You can assemble a circuit so that the light will turn on and off from any floor.

You always need only two pass-through switches: at the beginning and the end of the chain. Cross switches are placed between them. An example diagram for a four-story staircase is shown in Fig. 5.

Rice. 5. Four-point light on/off circuit

Armed with a pencil and paper, you can draw different options and make sure that pressing any key on any switch leads to a change in the situation: the light that was on goes out, and if the light was turned off, it lights up.

This wonderful circuit can grow by adding more crossover switches.

No matter how many crossover switches there are with four contacts, there should only be two pass-through switches: at the beginning and at the end.

Connection diagram for a two-key pass-through switch

The circuits shown in the previous sections can be characterized as follows: one light bulb and many switches, or rather pass-through and cross switches. These devices are similar to regular switches and have one key.

But it's on sale pass-through two-key switches, connection diagram which in Fig. 6,
as well as crossover two-key switches. These devices are used if you need to control two lamps independently of each other.

Fig.6 Switches for turning two light bulbs on and off

It is necessary to distinguish between controlling several light bulbs that light up and go out synchronously, and those that can be turned on independently of each other. In the first case, use pass-through switch, connection diagram for 1 key. in the second case, two-key ones are needed.

Single-key pass-through switches can switch two, three, four light bulbs connected in parallel; the limitation is imposed by the permissible current that can be switched by the contacts.

Two-key switches are two independent switches in one housing. They can switch two independent groups of light bulbs. Switch connection diagrams are two independent chains, each of which controls its own lamp or group of lamps.

Pass-through switch connection diagram for 2 keys

Switching of two lamps, in which it is used Schneider pass-through switch, connection diagram shown in Fig. 7.

Rice. 7. On/off circuit for 2 light bulbs from 3 points.

Two-key switches require careful handling. If, when you press a single key, the light either lights up or goes out (depending on the current state), then in a two-key device each key is responsible for switching its own group of lamps.

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How to connect a three-key switch

Modern trends in lighting control systems are developing not only in the direction of comfortable operation and varied design, but also increasing the level of efficiency. One such method is to use three-way switches that can control three groups of lighting fixtures from one access point.

The advantages of using a single three-circuit device are obvious. This is an aesthetic appearance, less labor-intensive installation of electrical cables to the connection point. Knocking out one technological niche in the wall to accommodate an installation box instead of several.

Such devices are used to illuminate rooms with complex configurations, long corridors, or control several rooms from one point: a bathroom, a bathroom and a hallway.

Lately, I have often been asked by mail and in the comments and asked for advice on such a seemingly ordinary device. Therefore, today we will examine in detail the topic of how to connect a three-key switch. P.S. in this example it is used three-gang switch schneider electric .

The three-key switch is subjected to more intensive use than other electrical switching equipment. The reliability of the device design should ensure an average service life of up to 10 years. Malfunctions that arise during operation can be divided into two categories:

• - mechanical - associated with the breakdown of the external and internal elements of the case, springs, fasteners, erasing keys, etc.;
• - electrical - loosening of the contact clamps in the electrical part of the mechanism, and, as a result, burning of the cables and the entire device as a whole.

Any breakdowns that lead to a violation of the integrity of the device or its individual elements require replacement of the entire product.

Repair or replacement of switches, like any other electrical equipment, must be carried out by a specialist with the appropriate level of clearance. The room where repair work is carried out must be de-energized.

You can purchase such switches at any electrical goods store. Three-key switch connection diagram. quite complicated at first glance, it will also not present any special problems after carefully reading the provided article.

Three-gang switch design

A large number of electrical equipment companies produce many models of switches. The devices have significant differences in external design and slightly smaller internal composition. However, the restrictions imposed by a standardized electrical wiring network in apartments force the use of switches with a limited number of switching sections in the control mechanism.

If it becomes possible to carry out a deep modernization of the electrical network, the use of triple switches will provide more flexible and economical control of lighting sources.

Connecting a three-key switch. in fact, it is no different from connecting one or two keys.

One of the power cables is connected to the input of the switch, and the lighting cables are connected to the output contacts (to the corresponding contacts of the switching block).

The differences are in the number of contacts of the switching groups - one, two or three. The photograph shows the installation part of a simple, typical three-key switch.

The difference between the input contacts to which the phase is supplied and the output contacts to which the cables leading to the lighting lamps are connected is clearly visible. The neutral wires of each lamp are combined together and connected to the neutral wire in the box.

The installation of the three-key switch mechanism itself in the socket box is carried out using a support that is secured with screws or using special spacer tabs. After the switch mechanism is securely fixed, a decorative frame is installed on top, which is secured with latches.

Three-key switch connection diagram

The use of a triple switch is justified when there is a need to control a large number of lighting zones and/or multi-level lighting. This will make it possible not only to control energy consumption, but also to facilitate the technical implementation of design solutions in the room.

However, to effectively use the device, you need the correct design and optimal connection diagram for the three-key switch.

The power cable comes into the distribution box from the panel: blue wire is zero, brown is phase. The phase must be connected to the switch (in our case to the common contact). A white wire is connected to the common contact of the switch (it can be seen in the photo), the other three that go from the box to the switch are wires connected to the “output” contacts (in the box they will be connected to the phase wires of the lamps).

The process of connecting the device will require the following set of tools: a flat-head and Phillips screwdriver, depending on the type of screws used in the mechanism, a stripper or side cutter - a tool for removing insulation, which can be replaced with a regular knife, wire cutters or pliers.

The installation algorithm may have the following points.

IMPORTANT! Before starting installation work, make sure that the network is de-energized. If the main switch is easily accessible, post a sign warning you of electrical work.

There should be four wires coming out of the wall where the device is installed. This may be a four-wire cable. More often there is one single-core, which is the phase coming from the junction box, and a three-core, which goes to the lighting fixtures through the junction box.

We collect the wires in the box. To connect the wires, I used wago self-clamping terminal blocks; they are very convenient and practical. If you don’t have such terminal blocks at hand, you can use regular twisting (in terms of reliability it will be even better).

The connection diagram for the three-key switch has been assembled. Let me explain a little. We connect the zero of the supply wire with all the neutral wires of all lamps (in our example, the neutral wires are blue). Then we connect the phase of the supply wire to the common contact of the switch (these are brown and white wires). There remain three wires that “came” from the switch and three phase wires from each lamp. For clarity, I put together a color-coded diagram, i.e. We connect the red wire that “came” from the switch with the red wire of the lamp, then the green wire that “came” from the switch with the green wire of the lamp, etc.

I would like to remind you that the connection diagram for a three-key switch must be assembled in such a way that a phase wire from the network is connected to the input of the switch. It is the phase, and not the neutral, wire that is supplied to the input of any switch, where it will be interrupted. The neutral wires from the network are immediately connected directly to the neutral wires of the lamp.

This connection method is regulated by instructions Rules for Electrical Installations- PUE. If the wiring diagram is incorrect - if the phase is supplied to the lamp, and the zero is connected through the break switch, the network will still function, but deviation from the standard version is fraught with danger during operation. In this case, even when the switch is turned off, all electrical wiring will continue to be energized.

Changing light bulbs will expose you to the risk of electric shock. Damage or breakdown of insulation, in the absence of the provided grounding of the lighting device, will lead to voltage in the device body. And, as a result, an electric shock at the slightest touch.

Let's try the scheme in action. We turn on one switch key. One lamp came on - everything is correct.

We turn on another switch key and the other lamp comes on.

To determine where the phase and neutral wires are located in the distribution box, you should first try to visually determine the identity of the wires by the markings. Then, using a tester or an indicator screwdriver, you will finally be convinced of this.

Connecting wires to a three-key switch

There are various models of triple switches: for external, internal installation or combined - in one housing with a socket.

Before how to connect a three-key switch you need to get to the connection terminals. To gain access to the three-key switch mechanism, you need to pull out the keys and remove the frame. This operation can be performed without the use of special tools.

First you need to remove the keys. The edge of the key is pressed against the wall with your finger in the off position, the other, protruding edge is picked up with a fingernail or a flat screwdriver and pulled towards itself. Basically, with new devices, the keys sit quite tightly on the guides; you don’t need to use excessive force to remove them; you can damage the front element and ruin the entire switch.

The switch frame is attached to the mechanism with a clamping insert, which is located in the middle. The fastening can be made in the form of guides that fit tightly into the mechanism or, as indicated in the photo, in the form of latches that should be pryed off with a screwdriver.

The method of fastening the wires in the mechanism is using clamping screws. Before inserting the stripped wires, make sure that the screws are not completely screwed into the slots. The three-key switch has four contacts for connecting wires: one for input and three for output.

In the switch mechanism itself, a common terminal should be separated, to which the phase wire should be connected and the terminals from which voltage will be supplied to individual lighting sections. As a rule, these contact groups are divided into separate blocks and placed on the back of the device.

No more than 5-10 mm of insulation is removed from the wires so that no bare wire is visible from the contact hole. The clamping screws are tightened tightly; when checking for removal, there should be no play in the wire.

If for connecting a three-key switch If stranded wires are used, then in order to prevent the wires from breaking off when tightened with a screw clamp, special NShVI lugs must be placed on the stripped part of the wire.

After completing the installation work, the switch is assembled in the reverse order.

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Without a switch, it is impossible to operate lighting fixtures, so ease of use depends on the correct installation of this simple device. If there are usually no problems with a single switch, then the connection diagram for a triple switch sometimes causes difficulties - then a multi-arm chandelier or combined lighting will not be able to fully work. Without basic knowledge of electrical circuit diagrams, it is difficult to correctly connect a triple pass-through switch or other electrical devices, and it is important to understand this in more detail.

Controlling lighting fixtures in the home

The switch is one of the simplest devices for regulating lighting in the house. However, when independently installing electrical wiring in the house, it is important to eliminate all possible errors in connecting the switch in order to ensure efficient power supply to lighting fixtures and other devices powered by the network. Today, several types of switches have been developed - automatic, walk-through, single-key and multi-key. In order for each of them to work correctly, it is important to know the connection diagram and operating principle.

Main types of switching modules:

• switch with presence or motion sensor;
• single or single-key pass-through switch or switch;
• switch with indicator;
• double or two-key pass-through switch;
• single-key switch;
• two-key or double switch;
• three-key or triple switch;
• circuit breaker;
• switch with night lighting;
• dimmer or dimmer.

Each type of switch has its own specifics. It is difficult to give definite advice when choosing a type of switch, but they are all designed for certain functions. For example, if the control device for a lighting device has 3 keys, then it is intended for a multi-light chandelier, which is turned on in 3 stages - for 1 light bulb, for 2-3, or lights up entirely. This is very economical and convenient so as not to unscrew unnecessary light bulbs. And the pass-through switch is designed for long corridors and stairs, so that you can use one module to turn on the lighting at the beginning of a long passage of the corridor, and at the other end the second module will turn off the light.

Most switches are very simple devices in design and have:

• the outer part of the box with a switch key;
• internal, where the network is closed.

If you don’t delve into the details of how the switches work, then visually they differ in the number of keys for switching the lighting;

• single;
• double;
• triples.

Triple switches are used:

1. To control one complex lighting fixture (ceiling chandelier).

2. To control different types of lighting from one point, for example, LED strip and sconces in the bedroom.

3. To turn off the lights in different rooms from one point, such as the bathroom, corridor and toilet.

4. For advanced lighting control, when a triple pass-through switch is included in the control system for different types of lighting fixtures.

A single switch is installed at the entrance to a room or house, and sometimes it is mounted in another room. For example, it is very convenient to include the pantry and kitchen from the hallway or corridor. Such a switch is enough to control one light bulb or low-power lamp.

The simplest connection diagram for a simple switch:

The double switch is also used to control the lighting of 1-2 moderate power fixtures in a small room. It is usually used in living rooms - children's room, bedroom, living room, kitchen. This switch is very convenient for a divided bathroom - the bathroom and toilet are turned on in the middle. Such a switch can control 2 groups of lighting fixtures - a double-on ceiling chandelier, a lampshade and sconces, a chandelier and a floor lamp, etc.

The simplest connection diagram for a two-key switch:

The triple switch is the most convenient and multifunctional, since it can be used to regulate the operation of a triple switch chandelier or the operation of 3 different groups of lighting fixtures. It is most convenient for turning off 3 different rooms from one point. In complex lighting design, such a switch can operate according to the “floor-wall-ceiling” diode lighting scheme. In addition to houses and apartments, three-key switch boxes are used to regulate lighting:

• in production premises;
• in warehouses;
• in office premises.

Triple switch connection diagram:

How to choose the right switch

Once upon a time, switches were push-button and only single, but today the most common are 1-, 2-, and 3-key switches. In Europe, to combine a larger number of keys into a common frame, I combine several 2-key switches. On the American continent they produce boxes with more than 3 switches, in South Korea they followed their example - there are modules with 6 keys, and each has its own color indicator, so as not to confuse the switches. European switches do not always have backlighting, most often only the 1-key box has it, but this is very convenient when searching for it at night.

1. Pass-through switches differ from simple switches in their circuit diagram - the same closed circuit can be opened in different parts of the corridor. Thanks to this, you can come into the house at night, turn on the light on the stairs, go up to the top floor and from there turn off the switches on any floor behind you. The switches are no different from ordinary switches in any other way. However, when purchasing, it is important to know this so that you do not inadvertently purchase a triple switch instead of a three-key switch, although visually they are different. It is for this purpose that a connection diagram must be printed on the packaging of imported goods or explanations must be made on the inside of the switch box.

2. Dimmers (light controllers) have a specific function - they don’t just turn on the light, but also regulate its brightness. When there is no point in bright, blinding lighting, then leave a small percentage of the backlight. When choosing a dimmer, it is important to take into account the total load of the switch, so it is customary to buy them with a power reserve. For example, for a three-armed ceiling-mounted chandelier with arms of 75-100 Watt wave, a dimmer marked with the number 300 W is sufficient.

3. Sometimes a switch with LED backlight and a control switch with an indicator are confused. They are similar in appearance, but they have different purposes and operating patterns. A diode light bulb at night will indicate the location of the switch in a dark room or when going down the stairs. But the indicator has a different functionality - a glowing light at the control switch indicates whether the device is turned on. Such switches are used to find out whether the light is on in a remote room - in the garage, basement or summer kitchen. The indicator is not turned on when the auxiliary room is dark - there is no need to go outside at night in winter to make sure.

4. Switches with a protective casing are used for:

• swimming pools (indoor and outdoor;
• bathrooms;
• combined bathrooms;
• saunas or steam rooms;
• for controlling external lighting devices.

Everything in them is thought out to counteract the increased load in terms of air humidity. They are not afraid of a stream of water that blows off a water tap, or the splashes of swimmers in the pool. For this purpose, inside the box the working elements are protected by rubber or plastic protection. Of course, you shouldn’t specifically water such a switch with water pressure from a flexible shower to check reliability, but in case of accidental splashes you can completely rely on their work.

5. An interesting device is an anti-vandal switch for public places, which is made of impact-resistant plastic or alloy. This is a regular switch with a "reinforced" box, and when installed correctly, it is difficult to break, break, burn, or knock over with a heavy object. This is intended for large shopping centers and banks to prevent attackers from taking advantage of the fragility of the structure for criminal purposes.

Attention: But not only anti-vandal switch boxes are made of metal and especially durable plastic, but also control devices for lighting devices of exclusive series. They are designed in such a way that they cannot short out and cause a fire even in an emergency, for example, if a door explodes.

How to choose the best quality switch

Reasons for breakage of the switch:

• poor contact on the contact plates - sparks and heats up;
• unreliability of the box and wiring connections;
• slight deformations in the plastic box may cause cracks;
• defective key fastening - the plate may fall off or become stuck.

Advice: Carefully inspect the purchased product, check:

• complete set according to the instructions;
• markings, physical quantities (voltage and current);
• compliance with the required purpose (dimmer, switch, indicator, backlight);
• presence of instructions with a diagram and a receipt (defective goods can be exchanged).

Only after this can you leave the store with a new switch and begin installing and connecting the switch. You will also need the following tool:

• pliers and wire cutters;
• voltage indicator;
• Phillips and flat screwdrivers;
• screwdriver

The simplest way to install a triple switch

Before you begin installing the triple switch, prepare your tools, turn off the breaker and understand the wiring on the wall where the 3-button switch box will be located.

A bundle of 2 wires with 3 cores and 1 three-core wire - it is important not to confuse where the phase is and where the zero phase is. These 2 wires are phase, but there may be other options that differ from this standard. The purpose of the wires must be determined using a voltage indicator - a phase wire is placed on the switch if it is not yet clear how to connect the triple switch. Remember that installation of a socket box is also necessary if it is missing.

The zero phase is supplied to the lighting fixture, and the switch itself provides a phase break. But even when it is connected at the zero phase break, the circuit also works. After checking with an indicator, it is better to mark the phase leads. The operation of phase beams can also be checked using a conventional incandescent lamp when there is no indicator. It is enough to take the cartridge with the wires out and close it to an obvious result.

When the lamp glows at full intensity, this is a phase break; the pure glow of the lamp is a zero-phase. When the lamp does not turn on at all - it hits 2 phases or 2 zeros. If in doubt, check everything again. 2-wire wires are connected to the lamp, and a 3-wire wire is fed into the distribution box, where the phase and zero are, and the ends with the zero-phase are brought together under a screw on the switch body box. Next comes the connection of 3-phase wires leading to the lighting device.

How to connect a triple switch: connection diagram

Attention: Remember that the triple switch controls the operation of lighting fixtures or lamps in different rooms. It is important not to confuse anything, otherwise the rightmost key will have to turn on the room on the left or vice versa!

Installation should only be carried out according to the triple switch connection diagram. Zero - directly to the lamp, phase - to the switch.

Tip: When connecting yourself, you can save on calling a specialist, installing a switch box, a lamp and an indoor socket box. But if you have difficulties installing the socket box, grounding and the connection diagram of the triple switch itself, use the electrician’s hint. It is also worth installing a special transparent shield around the switch so that the wallpaper does not get dirty from hands.

Man's desire to make living conditions comfortable leads to the emergence of new types of devices and mechanisms. One of them is a triple switch with a socket, which allows you to minimize the space occupied on the wall and make the life of the owner of an apartment (private house) more convenient.

In addition, this approach has several other advantages:

• aesthetic appearance - there is only one control panel of keys with a socket on the wall;
• saving time on laying cables during initial planning or repairs;
• reduction in labor costs due to the installation of one niche for a switch socket instead of several.

Using a block of triple pass-through switch, combined with a socket in one housing, will be appropriate for complex layouts - when several small rooms are located nearby. For example, hallway, bathroom, toilet, kitchen, etc.

Installation of a triple switch in a niche in the wall is done using special supports or spacer tabs on the sides of the device. After the device is securely fixed on top, it is closed with a decorative frame, which can be attached in various ways, but most often with small latches.

Set of tools and algorithm of work

To carry out repairs or install a new block of a triple pass-through switch combined with a socket, you will need:

• a flat or Phillips screwdriver - depending on the type of fastening screw heads;
• stripper - a tool that removes insulation from wiring;
• pliers, wire cutters;
• knife, electrical tape.

The work algorithm as a whole includes the following points:

• disassemble the switch so that you can later install it in a niche in the wall;
• turn off the power supply to the repair or installation site;
• determine the purpose of each of the existing terminals of the electrical appliance;
• establish the connection points of all wires;
• proceed directly to connecting the triple switch.

In order for the device to work correctly and without failures for a long time, perform all actions carefully, taking into account the connection diagram.

Having studied what was written above, you already know approximately how to connect a triple switch in the same housing with a socket. For each such device you will need four single-core wires or a four-core cable. Sometimes you will see that there are two wires: a single wire "phase" and a three wire running through the junction box to the lights.

First, assemble the wires according to the connection diagram using self-clamping terminal blocks or using manual “twisting”. In this case, connect the zero from the output cable together with all the same wires from the lighting fixtures.

Secure the phase from the power cable to the common contact of the switch. You can determine where each wire is in the junction box visually or using special devices: a tester or an indicator screwdriver.

After these steps, there will remain three single-core wires from the switch mechanism and one phase from each of the incandescent light bulbs.

Please note: the connection diagram for such devices indicates that it is the phase cable from the mains that must be connected to the input terminal of the switch, and not the neutral one. If even one mistake is made during installation, the safe operation of the triple switch is not guaranteed in this case.

In addition, there is a real risk of electric shock even when changing an incandescent light bulb, because all electrical wiring is constantly energized. That is, a minimal breakdown of the insulating layer in the absence of grounding of lighting lamps (luminaires) can lead to unpredictable consequences.

After installing a block of a triple pass-through switch combined with a socket, check its functionality. Turn on all the keys in turn - the lights should light up and turn off.

How to connect wires directly to a switch

The process may be slightly different depending on the model of the triple switch, but in general all actions are performed in the same way.

So, pull out the keys, remove the decorative frame and find the connection terminals. But remember that when performing these and all further work, you need to be extremely careful and attentive to prevent damage to the new electrical appliance.

The cables in the switch mechanism are held in place thanks to clamping screws, which you need to slightly unscrew before starting installation - for unhindered passage of the wires.

Please note that the triple switch connection diagram provides four cable terminals: three output and one input.

First you should determine the location of the common terminal where the phase will be supplied, and then you will see the terminals for each lighting section. As a rule, they are located to the side, on a separate block, or even placed on the back of the electrical appliance.

On each of the wires, you will need to remove no more than 7-10 mm of the insulating layer to prevent bare wires from touching the internal mechanism of the device.

Tighten the clamping screws tightly because there is no play allowed. And use special NShVI lugs if you use multi-core cables. This significantly reduces the risk of wire breaking while tightening it with screw clamps.

After completing all the steps, assemble the outer decorative frame of the triple switch in the reverse order.

The most important thing when installing any such device is to remember safety precautions when working with electrical appliances. Make sure there is no power before you begin disassembling the old switch.

Modern trends in lighting control systems are developing not only in the direction of comfortable operation and varied design, but also increasing the level of efficiency. One such method is to use three-way switches that can control three groups of lighting fixtures from one access point.

The advantages of using a single three-circuit device are obvious. This is an aesthetic appearance, less labor-intensive laying of electrical cables to the connection point. Knocking out one technological niche in the wall to accommodate an installation box instead of several.

Such devices are used to illuminate rooms with complex configurations, long corridors, or control several rooms from one point: a bathroom, a bathroom and a hallway.

Lately, I have often been asked by mail and in the comments and asked for advice on such a seemingly ordinary device. Therefore, today we will examine in detail the topic of how to connect a three-key switch. P.S. in this example it is used three-gang switch schneider electric.

The three-key switch is subjected to more intensive use than other electrical switching equipment. The reliability of the device design should ensure an average service life of up to 10 years. Malfunctions that arise during operation can be divided into two categories:

• - mechanical – associated with the breakdown of the external and internal elements of the case, springs, fasteners, erasing keys, etc.;
• - electrical – loosening of the contact clamps in the electrical part of the mechanism, and, as a result, burning of the cables and the entire device as a whole.

Any breakdowns that lead to a violation of the integrity of the device or its individual elements require replacement of the entire product.

Repair or replacement of switches, like any other electrical equipment, must be carried out by a specialist with the appropriate level of clearance. The room where repair work is carried out must be de-energized.

You can purchase such switches at any electrical goods store. , quite complicated at first glance, will also not present any particular problems after carefully reading the provided article.

Three-gang switch design

A large number of electrical equipment companies produce many models of switches. The devices have significant differences in external design and slightly smaller internal composition. However, the restrictions imposed by a standardized electrical wiring network in apartments force the use of switches with a limited number of switching sections in the control mechanism.

If it becomes possible to carry out a deep modernization of the electrical network, the use of triple switches will provide more flexible and economical control of lighting sources.

Connecting a three-key switch, in fact, is no different from connecting one or two keys.

One of the power cables is connected to the input of the switch, and the lighting cables are connected to the output contacts (to the corresponding contacts of the switching block).

The differences are in the number of contacts of the switching groups - one, two or three. The photograph shows the installation part of a simple, typical three-key switch.

The difference between the input contacts to which the phase is supplied and the output contacts to which the cables leading to the lighting lamps are connected is clearly visible. The neutral wires of each lamp are combined together and connected to the neutral wire in the box.

Installation of the three-key switch mechanism itself into the socket box is carried out using a support which is secured with screws or using special spacer tabs. After the switch mechanism is securely fixed, a decorative frame is installed on top, which is secured with latches.

Three-key switch connection diagram

The use of a triple switch is justified when there is a need to control a large number of lighting zones and/or multi-level lighting. This will make it possible not only to control energy consumption, but also to facilitate the technical implementation of design solutions in the room.

Where are they used?

Modern renovations and design solutions increasingly suggest dividing lighting into different groups.

For example, a room has a complex configuration - niches, ledges, separation by partitions or curtains. Very often now large one-room apartments are divided into zones and made into so-called studios. In this case, a switch with three keys is ideal. By using specially designed and mounted zone lighting, you can highlight a work area where there will be a computer desk, a sofa, shelves with books, here the lighting is made brighter. The second zone is the sleeping area, where more subdued light is quite suitable. The third zone is the living room, where there is a coffee table, armchairs, and a TV; here the lighting can be combined.

When else is it advisable to use a three-key household switch?

• If from one point it is necessary to control the lighting of three rooms at once, for example, a corridor, a bathroom and a bathroom, when they are located close to each other.
• In the case of combined lighting in the room - central and spot.
• When in a large room, lighting is provided by a multi-arm chandelier.
• If the room has a multi-level ceiling made of plasterboard sheets.
• When the lighting of a long corridor is divided into three zones.

Advantages

From installing such a triple switch you will receive the following advantages:

1. Externally, one switch with three keys looks more compact and more aesthetically pleasing than three single ones.
2. Laying electrical wires to the connection point will be less expensive in terms of labor and money.
3. You will need to make one technological niche in the wall for the mounting box instead of three.
4. Economic effect. For example, if your chandelier has 3-4 light bulbs, then turning on a single-key switch ensures that all of them work at once, while consuming maximum electricity. But such illumination is not always necessary; dim light is sufficient. If you install a 3-key household switch for such a chandelier, then, if necessary, one or two lamps are turned on, thereby saving almost half of the electricity.

Kinds

Do not rush to connect a three-key switch until you decide exactly what kind of device you want to see in your apartment. After all, these switching devices come in several types:

• Regular.
• Walkthroughs. They are used in long corridors or on different floors, when at the entrance (at the beginning of the corridor or on the first floor) the lighting is turned on by one switch, and when leaving (at the end of the corridor or on the second floor) another switch is turned off. That is, you don’t need to make your way in the dark and crawl along the wall with your hand to find the button of the switching device.
• With indication. Such light beacons have two options for indicating the status of the device. Or they glow when the lights are off and thereby indicate in a dark room where the switching device is located. Or, on the contrary, the beacons light up when the keys are turned on, thereby making it clear where exactly the light is currently turned on.
• Three-key switch with socket. They are most often used in rooms where a toilet, bathroom and corridor are located nearby.

How to choose?

Nowadays there is such a huge range of switches on the electrical goods market that you can find a suitable model and color for any design solution or interior. However, you understand perfectly well that shade and appearance are far from the main indicators that you should pay attention to when choosing a device. When purchasing a three-key switch, check the following:

1. The presence of modern self-clamping terminals, they are more convenient to use. Simply insert the wire into the hole and it will immediately be fixed.
2. The outer side of the product is without burrs, scratches or damage.
3. The normal operation of all terminals, they must ensure reliable fixation of the wire cores.
4. The keys do not stick when pressed (on or off) and work clearly, with a clearly audible characteristic click.
5. On the reverse side there should be a connection diagram for the triple switch.

Try to avoid cheap Chinese electrical wiring products. Buy devices from trusted companies and manufacturers.

Design

There are no special differences in the design of these switches. The principle of operation is the same as for two- or one-key ones.

Let's consider the main elements of the switching device.

Keys and frame, so-called protective elements. For their manufacture, special heat-resistant plastic is used. The keys directly turn the switch on and off.

The operating mechanism, or actuator, that operates the keys. The frame is connected to the working mechanism with special latches or screws. This entire assembled structure is mounted in an installation box and fixed in it with special spacers.

The connected three-key device must have four contacts - one to connect the power supply wire, three more will connect the switch to the lighting elements. The material for contacts is usually copper; the size varies depending on the cross-section of the wire and the connected load.

The use of this type of switches is more intensive than others, so their average service life is from 8 to 10 years. There can be two main reasons why a device may fail:

• Mechanical - fastening elements were damaged, the housing collapsed.
• Electrical - damage to contacts.

If there is a breakdown, do not try to replace any components in a three-key switch; the device should be replaced completely. It would be better if this is done by a professional electrician in compliance with all safety rules. Although, if you are well acquainted with electrical engineering, have skills in working with power tools, and understand what “phase” and “zero” are, it will not be difficult for you to do this yourself.

Installation and connection

Let's talk a little about how to properly install the device in question. But first of all, about the tools. You must have:

• flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
• a stripper so that you can remove the insulation, or a knife;
• pliers;
• electrical tape or clamps.

A two-wire wire (phase and neutral) comes from the power supply to the distribution box, which is installed in the room.

There should be four wires going to the switch. One is a phase from the power supply (it comes from the distribution box) and three phase wires from lighting fixtures.

The three-key device has 4 contact units:

• input contact, the supply phase must be connected to it;
• three more contacts; the phase conductors of the wires going to the lighting devices are connected to them.

The neutral conductors of the wires going to the lamps must be connected in the distribution box to the neutral wire of the supply network.

When you connect a phase to the input contact of the switch, do not confuse it with the neutral wire. The switching device must break exactly the phase, and not the zero. Otherwise, when replacing lamps in luminaires, you risk getting energized.

Now some practical steps:

1. Before connecting the triple switch, ensure that the power is completely disconnected. Turn off the input machine that is installed at the entrance to the apartment. This is an important condition for any work related to electricity.
2. There is a connection diagram on the back of the switch. According to it, connect the phase wires from the power supply network and from the lighting fixtures. The contacts are made with self-clamping terminals, so all you have to do is fix the wires in them.
3. After this, the switch is secured in the installation box using clamping screws. All that remains is to secure the keys and frame on top.
4. Connections in the junction box can be made by twisting. The wire coming from the switch to the lamp is connected to the phase wire of this lighting device. A small part of the wires is stripped, twisted together with pliers, after which the contact is insulated using a special tape. Everything can be simplified if you use modern clamps. Do the same with the remaining two pairs of wires. And in exactly the same way they connect the neutral wires of three lighting fixtures to the network neutral.
5. It remains to check the connected switch. Turn on the input machine for the apartment and alternately pressing the keys of the mounted switching device, check whether the lamps of the lamps light up.

A device with which you can control three independent lamps is undoubtedly a very successful and profitable invention of mankind. But still, before you connect the switch, evaluate your knowledge and strength. There are times when it is better to trust the professionals.

The three-key light switch is designed to control three lighting circuits. Moreover, each circuit can have any number of light bulbs - one, two, three or more.

The connection must begin by connecting the wires to the switch in the installation box. And to do this, you first need to disassemble it.

Connecting wires to the switch

Remove the keys from the switch. You need to start from the central one. There is usually a gap underneath it. Insert the tip of a screwdriver into it and, with a little force, snap off the key.

The rest can be removed by hand without using a screwdriver.

Next, on the sides, again using a screwdriver, pry up the latches and release the decorative trim.

The central part of the switch with 4 contacts should remain. One on top and three on bottom.

The top contact may not always be centered, keep this in mind.

This single terminal must receive the common phase power conductor from the distribution box.

The bottom three are connected to the wires going to the light bulbs, that is, to separate circuits No. 1, No. 2, No. 3.

To connect you will need a 4-core cable VVGnG-Ls 4*1.5mm2. From the junction box in the groove, lower it into the socket box where the switch should be mounted.
Then you start connecting the wires.

Connect the phase conductor to the common central terminal.

Connect the remaining three wires to the outgoing circuits to the lower terminals. In order not to get confused in the future, it is better to label them.

Insert the switch into the mounting box and secure it there. Place the keys in reverse order, starting with the outermost ones. You simply snap them back into place.

In doing so, pay attention to the location of the keys.

The correct position is when the lighting turns on when the key is pressed up, and turns off when the key is pressed down.

Now you need to correctly connect all the wires in the junction box.

Connection diagrams

Several cables can come into the junction box.

Firstly, this is a three-wire power cable from the lighting circuit breaker installed in the electrical panel. Secondly, a 4-wire cable goes down to the three-key switch, which you have already connected from below.

Well, then there may be options. If you have one chandelier with 3, 6, 9 bulbs, then you can connect it with one single five or 4-core VVGnG-Ls cable with a cross-section of 1.5 mm2.

If you have three independent lamps, in different parts of the room or house, then you will have to run a separate 3-core cable to each of them. Let's consider the last option in more detail.

Wire connections in the distribution box

So, in the junction box you will have 5 cables. You need to avoid getting confused and correctly connect their wires to each other.

To do this, always start the connection with the neutral and grounding conductors. Regardless of the number of circuits and light bulbs, all zeros must be combined into one common point.

The same applies to grounding conductors. On lamps they are connected to the housing. Although in some cases they may not exist at all.

The fastest way to connect the cores is through Vago terminal clamps. For lighting loads this is a very good option.

Try to choose the colors of the cores in accordance with the current rules. Zeros are blue conductors, groundings are yellow-green.

Pay special attention to the fact that the zero does not go to the switch, but goes directly to the lamps. Only the phase should be broken through the contacts of the three-key switch.

It remains to connect the phase conductors. You need to start with the phase coming through the cable from the input machine.

You connect it only to the common phase conductor going to the central terminal of the three-key switch and nowhere else. This will trigger the phase on the switch.

Next, connect the three wires coming out of the keys with the three phase wires of the outgoing circuits to the lamps. You do this with three different wago clamps.

If you have previously marked the wires, you can easily recognize which key will turn off which light bulb (toilet, bathroom, hallway, etc.)

If assembled correctly, the distribution box should have 6 connection points.

Before directly applying voltage, you must once again check the entire connection diagram of the 3-key switch. If there are no errors, then turn on the automatic lighting and use the keys to start your lamps.

Connecting a 3-key switch and socket

Often, a triple switch is installed in the same block with a socket. How to make this connection correctly?

First of all, you should know that for such installation it is already necessary to use a copper cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2.

A cable of this cross-section should go not only from the distribution box to the switch, but most importantly from the switchboard, to this very junction box.

Run the 5*2.5mm2 cable down the groove to the switch+socket block. Now it will be necessary to set not only a phase, but also a zero. It is better to connect the common phase conductor to the contact of the socket, since it is on it that the load is greater than on the lamps.

And then, using a jumper, connect this phase to the upper terminal of the 3-key switch.

Zero is connected to the second contact of the socket. The remaining three wires, according to the previously discussed diagram, are routed under the three lower contacts of the three-key switch.

The wiring in the junction box is carried out almost similarly to that discussed above. Except that it is necessary to connect another neutral wire to the common zero point.

Connection errors

The point here may be that you simply mixed up the phase and neutral on the outlet. And accordingly, they connected the jumper to the common terminal of the switch not with the phase wire, but with the neutral wire.

Using an indicator screwdriver, double-check where the phase is coming from.

Often, some electricians run separate wiring for the outlet and separate wiring for the switch. As a result, you may have two power supplies in the unit at the same time. And by assembling the circuit according to the above instructions, you can inadvertently create a short circuit.

As soon as you turn it on, everything works as it should. It's all about incorrect phase connection. You launched it on the output contact of the third key, and not on the general input.
Again, everything is decided by checking the indicator.

You start checking the voltage on the contacts, and the indicator screwdriver shows three incoming phases instead of one! That is, it lights up on all three contacts at the same time. How is this possible?

But the fact is that the switch in this case does not break the phase, but the zero!

The electrician who directly connected the old switch himself a long time ago may not be at fault. It’s just that over time, someone else transferred the wires in the meter or the common switchboard to your apartment.

So it turned out that where there was a phase before, a zero was formed. Often, understanding switchboards is not easy even for the installers themselves.

The indicator lights up on the contacts because the bulbs are screwed into the sockets. As a result, the circuit turns out to be closed through the filament.

Unscrew all the lamps and check the phase conductors again. The glow in the three phases should disappear. For the correct connection, here you already need to find a common zero and throw it onto the central contact of the new three-key switch.

The best way is to find the cause in the switchboard, inviting a professional electrician and restoring the normal power supply circuit.

Many people find it convenient to press a key and the light in the socket goes out. This is not recommended. This is due to the fact that usually a powerful load is connected through the socket contacts, for example a 1.5-2 kW hair dryer.

But you can still connect a tee or extension cable through it! The switch contacts are not designed for a current of this magnitude and duration. As a result, after some time, the voltage in the entire unit will disappear, unless a fire occurs even earlier.

Modern trends in lighting control systems are developing not only in the direction of comfortable operation and varied design, but also increasing the level of efficiency. One such method is to use three-way switches that can control three groups of lighting fixtures from one access point.

The advantages of using a single three-circuit device are obvious. This is an aesthetic appearance, less labor-intensive installation of electrical cables to the connection point. Knocking out one technological niche in the wall to accommodate an installation box instead of several.

Such devices are used to illuminate rooms with complex configurations, long corridors, or control several rooms from one point: a bathroom, a bathroom and a hallway.

Lately, I have often been asked by mail and in the comments and asked for advice on such a seemingly ordinary device. Therefore, today we will examine in detail the topic of how to connect a three-key switch. P.S. in this example it is used three-gang switch schneider electric.

The three-key switch is subjected to more intensive use than other electrical switching equipment. The reliability of the device design should ensure an average service life of up to 10 years. Malfunctions that arise during operation can be divided into two categories:

• - mechanical – associated with the breakdown of the external and internal elements of the case, springs, fasteners, erasing keys, etc.;
• - electrical – loosening of the contact clamps in the electrical part of the mechanism, and, as a result, burning of the cables and the entire device as a whole.

Any breakdowns that lead to a violation of the integrity of the device or its individual elements require replacement of the entire product.

Repair or replacement of switches, like any other electrical equipment, must be carried out by a specialist with the appropriate level of clearance. The room where repair work is carried out must be de-energized.

You can purchase such switches at any electrical goods store. Three-key switch connection diagram, quite complicated at first glance, will also not present any particular problems after carefully reading the provided article.

Three-gang switch design

A large number of electrical equipment companies produce many models of switches. The devices have significant differences in external design and slightly smaller internal composition. However, the restrictions imposed by a standardized electrical wiring network in apartments force the use of switches with a limited number of switching sections in the control mechanism.

If it becomes possible to carry out a deep modernization of the electrical network, the use of triple switches will provide more flexible and economical control of lighting sources.

Connecting a three-key switch, in fact, is no different from connecting one or two keys.

One of the power cables is connected to the input of the switch, and the lighting cables are connected to the output contacts (to the corresponding contacts of the switching block).

The differences are in the number of contacts of the switching groups - one, two or three. The photograph shows the installation part of a simple, typical three-key switch.

The difference between the input contacts to which the phase is supplied and the output contacts to which the cables leading to the lighting lamps are connected is clearly visible. The neutral wires of each lamp are combined together and connected to the neutral wire in the box.

Installation of the three-key switch mechanism itself into the socket box is carried out using a support which is secured with screws or using special spacer tabs. After the switch mechanism is securely fixed, a decorative frame is installed on top, which is secured with latches.

Three-key switch connection diagram

The use of a triple switch is justified when there is a need to control a large number of lighting zones and/or multi-level lighting. This will make it possible not only to control energy consumption, but also to facilitate the technical implementation of design solutions in the room.

However, to use the device effectively, it requires proper design and optimal connection diagram for a three-key switch.

The power cable comes into the distribution box from the panel: blue wire is zero, brown is phase. The phase must be connected to the switch (in our case to the common contact). A white wire is connected to the common contact of the switch (it can be seen in the photo), the other three that go from the box to the switch are wires connected to the “output” contacts (in the box they will be connected to the phase wires of the lamps).

The process of connecting the device will require the following set of tools: a flat-head and Phillips screwdriver, depending on the type of screws used in the mechanism, a stripper or side cutter - a tool for removing insulation, which can be replaced with a regular knife, wire cutters or pliers.

The installation algorithm may have the following points.

There should be four wires coming out of the wall where the device is installed. This may be a four-wire cable. More often there is one single-core, which is the phase coming from the junction box, and a three-core, which goes to the lighting fixtures through the junction box.

We collect the wires in the box. To connect the wires, I used wago self-clamping terminal blocks; they are very convenient and practical. If you don’t have such terminal blocks at hand, you can use regular twisting (in terms of reliability it will be even better).

The connection diagram for the three-key switch has been assembled. Let me explain a little. We connect the neutral of the supply wire with all the neutral wires of all lamps (in our example, the neutral wires are blue). Then we connect the phase of the supply wire to the common contact of the switch (these are brown and white wires). There remain three wires that “came” from the switch and three phase wires from each lamp. For clarity, I put together a color-coded diagram, i.e. We connect the red wire that “came” from the switch with the red wire of the lamp, then the green wire that “came” from the switch with the green wire of the lamp, etc.

I would like to remind you that the connection diagram for a three-key switch must be assembled in such a way that a phase wire was connected to the switch input from the network. It is the phase, and not the neutral, wire that is supplied to the input of any switch, where it will be interrupted. The neutral wires from the network are immediately connected directly to the neutral wires of the lamp.

This connection method is regulated by instructions Rules for Electrical Installations- PUE. If the wiring diagram is incorrect - if the phase is supplied to the lamp, and the zero is connected through the break switch, the network will still function, but deviation from the standard version is fraught with danger during operation. In this case, even when the switch is turned off, all electrical wiring will continue to be energized.

Changing light bulbs will expose you to the risk of electric shock. Damage or breakdown of insulation, in the absence of the provided grounding of the lighting device, will lead to voltage in the device body. And, as a result, an electric shock at the slightest touch.

Let's try the scheme in action. We turn on one switch key. One lamp came on - everything is correct.

We turn on another switch key and the other lamp comes on.

To determine where the phase and neutral wires are located in the distribution box, you should first try to visually determine the identity of the wires by the markings. Then, using a tester or an indicator screwdriver, you will finally be convinced of this.

Connecting wires to a three-key switch

There are various models of triple switches: for external, internal installation or combined - in one housing with a socket.

Before that, you need to get to the connection terminals. To gain access to the three-key switch mechanism, you need to pull out the keys and remove the frame. This operation can be performed without the use of special tools.

First you need to remove the keys. The edge of the key is pressed against the wall with your finger in the off position, the other, protruding edge is picked up with a fingernail or a flat screwdriver and pulled towards itself. Basically, with new devices, the keys sit quite tightly on the guides; you don’t need to use excessive force to remove them; you can damage the front element and ruin the entire switch.

The switch frame is attached to the mechanism with a clamping insert, which is located in the middle. The fastening can be made in the form of guides that fit tightly into the mechanism or, as indicated in the photo, in the form of latches that should be pryed off with a screwdriver.

The method of fastening the wires in the mechanism is using clamping screws. Before inserting the stripped wires, make sure that the screws are not completely screwed into the slots. The three-key switch has four contacts for connecting wires: one for input and three for output.

In the switch mechanism itself, a common terminal should be separated, to which the phase wire should be connected and the terminals from which voltage will be supplied to individual lighting sections. As a rule, these contact groups are divided into separate blocks and placed on the back of the device.

No more than 5-10 mm of insulation is removed from the wires so that no bare wire is visible from the contact hole. The clamping screws are tightened tightly; when checking for removal, there should be no play in the wire.

If for connecting a three-key switch If stranded wires are used, then in order to prevent the wires from breaking off when tightened with a screw clamp, special NShVI lugs must be placed on the stripped part of the wire.

After completing the installation work, the switch is assembled in the reverse order.